With all the latest bios and firmware and driver updates it has been very stable.
The motherboards are forwards compatible, your chosen B450 should work with the 3000 series chips. Some vendors will be shipping with new firmware and others may allow BIOS flashing without the CPU and memory installed.
Just wanted to warn anyone trying this of the hazards with sub-ambient cooling.
Moisture in the air will form condensation on cold surfaces and could collect on sensitive electronic components causing a short and potential irreparable harm to system components.
Only do this if you understand/accept the risks and precautions needed to mitigate them.
None, other than some dead sticks I had to RMA. XMP is fine and system has been stable.
Thanks! Sorry was out of town so didn't see your post. The Bora Lites are nice, good color and the aluminum frames look slick. Noise is decent at low RPM but can get loud when PWM ramps up. It's not a high pitched fan, so not terrible even when they do get loud. Airflow seems good too.
Top slot. I believe that slot only supports PCIe drives. (Not SATA)
Your build has some issues. Namely, your parts are all several generations behind and way overpriced if you don't already own the majority of them. Check the build guides for some more up to date lists.
For GPU "power" your best bet is to look at reviews for individual graphics cards and see how they perform at the resolution you want. For reference, the current generation of nvidia is the GTX 10 series (1060, 1050, etc) and AMD is the RX 500 series (580, 570, etc)
The 7900 series was an amazing value. I still have my OC'ed 7950 in my current rig and run respectably at 1080p. But the thermal constraints of the "trash can" case are gonna hamstring that system, on top of the older architecture. I don't think that series supports freesync either, so you lose that bit of compensation.
But hey, if it's what he's most comfortable with and can afford then that's up to him. I was just curious because it's a fairly unique set of requirements you laid out.
Do you know why he wants to use a Mac? Is he just using it for gaming or does he have professional/creative work to do? Did he find some amazing deal? I mean, it's not just that a Mac Pro isn't made for gaming but I think the ones with dual D700 cards originally came out in 2013 - 2014? And it's still using a GPU architecture from 2011. He's gonna find it did not age gracefully.
If the new paste you got is not electrically conductive then it's fine if some runs out the side. It's better to use a little too much paste than not enough. (Although don't go nuts.) As long as you get fresh paste down with good coverage and make sure to fully seat and secure the cooler you should be fine.
This is very likely the cause of your high temps, or the cooler still isn't seated securely. Either way you should remove it, clean the cooler and CPU with alcohol and a lint-free cloth (coffee filter works) and then reapply. Try to align as best you can to avoid repeated lifting/repositioning once the cooler is down on the CPU. Good luck!
From the extremely brief research I've done, Apple doesn't support crossfire in the Mac OS. It can apparently be enabled if he dual boots to Windows for things like games. To answer your question, I think the Tahiti GPU in the D700 is underclocked a bit from the 7970 so maybe something like 7950 performance. The crossfire scaling could be good, but only in games/applications that support it.
The real answer is: your friend should be aware that if you buy a Mac Pro it's not primarily for gaming and I assume he does know that.
Maybe I'm wrong in my assumption but your post seems to indicate you think G-Sync only works with Nvidia manufactured cards. Any Nvidia GPU can use G-Sync. It doesn't have to be an Nvidia branded card. All third party Geforce cards are based on Nvidia chips and all can use G-Sync. Asus, Gigabyte, MSI, Zotac, EVGA, etc... all G-Sync compatible.
Does it have to be a Founders Edition? Just curious about that requirement.
Datacenter GPU. Specialized card for "workstation as a service" type virtualization. Nvidia has had their GRID and vDWS solutions and this is the AMD response.
I wouldn't call SLI "trash". Maybe "hot garbage" or "dumpster fire"...
Seriously though, it's just poorly supported and for most it's a huge waste if you're expecting a large boost in games. The usual advice is never go with SLI/Crossfire if you can spend the money on a better single GPU. However, the 1080 Ti is realistically the best card on the market so there isn't much upgrade path from there.
If you had to skimp on any other components in your build to get the second Ti card, I'd sell it and upgrade those parts. If everything else is relatively high end/high performance then SLI can just be a cool feather in your cap and help performance here and there too.
Of course, what do I know? My last SLI build was two 8800 GT's...
I would never choose threadripper for a gaming build.
Intel is better for pure gaming but AMD Ryzen can provide good performance for a better price. Depends on budget and what else you want to do with the pc.
Sounds like the cooler is either not pumping or isn't making good contact. NZXT CAM software might be able to tell you if the pump is having issues, you could install that and see what it says.
Obviously, make sure all the fan and pump connections are properly seated on the motherboard.
And finally, take the cooler off, remove and reapply thermal paste (TIM) and remount it. Make sure you have good TIM coverage and mounting pressure and ensure you connect all the wires up properly again.
I can say for certain the 1070 ti or 1080 are going to be the best value at the moment. They both offer a lot more performance than the 1070 and generally for only 40 or 50 more dollars.
Because the 1070 ti and 1080 can perform so closely I would recommend looking at whichever best fits your budget with the best cooling you can find. Both will get you over 60fps at 1440p at high settings and should keep that level of performance for a while.
Awesome, glad to hear! Good luck on getting this beast finished!
Is your M.2 SSD in the hidden slot on the board? Does that slot take PCIE lanes from one of the PCIE expansion slots you are trying to use? Maybe someone knows better than me about this specific board but some implementations of PCIE M.2 basically disable a slot if a drive is in use.
If price isn't a factor between the two, the EVGA has potentially higher boost clocks out of the box. If you overclock then it's not really relevant. EVGA is also known for great warranty support and the "step up" program if Nvidia releases new cards in the next month or so and you want to upgrade.
The 1050 ti is an entry level card of the newest generation Nvidia architecture. It's geared toward people looking to play games on a smaller budget.
The 980 ti is a flagship card of the previous generation. Even though it's an older design it has much more raw performance and was made for high end gaming systems. I believe the performance is a little behind the GTX 1070.
You might be right, I'm just gonna advise him to back up his important/irreplaceable stuff to an external drive when he starts doing content creation.
I think he'll really enjoy it, he's a huge gamer and has been playing on an alienware laptop from like 2012-2013.
The GPU cooler has all the right parts for a good aftermarket; heat pipes and fins, it's just not enough of either. I can see why it was much cheaper but still held up in benchmarks so it should be fine.
The hard drive and PSU are my two biggest concerns for the life of this PC. The drive is a little noisy accessing data, my advice to him is gonna be to back up all his original content and videos to an additional external drive. It's just the smartest thing to do even if the drive wasn't sketchy.
I'm almost positive most of that cost is mark-up for the "exclusive" technology and the board is probably pretty cheap. That being said, with most major consoles running AMD graphics and TVs starting to get on the adaptive sync/freesync bandwagon I wonder how long nvidia can keep pushing a proprietary solution especially at this price difference.
Nvidia puts a custom G-Sync module which replaces the normal scaler that exists in most other monitors. They basically use the same display panels but a proprietary interface to make G-Sync work. AMD Freesync is based on VESA Adaptive-Sync standards and are built in to DisplayPort 1.2a. AMD doesn't require special hardware or charge royalties to to enable Freesync so it tends to be cheaper.
You might want to look at the Deepcool Dukase. I don't think they include fans but at the price point you might be able to buy those separately and be under budget.
Yes. The 1080 ti is ideal for both uses. You might be more concerned about your CPU which can be a limiting factor in FPS.
Side note: if the 1080 ti couldn't handle gaming at those settings, nothing else could either. It's literally the best readily available consumer card on the market.
$221 for a full PC? Not to rain on your parade but your requested requirements are not reasonable at your stated budget, and it seems you copied and pasted the entire first paragraph from a generic spec sheet or advertisement with no real idea of what the PC market is like right now.
I recommend you go look at the build guides:
Use the Price filter to see if anyone has a guide close to your price range.
Nvidia is like a demon, knowing its True Name gives you power over it. That's why they keep the GPU series names a secret for so long. They even change the names or skip some to throw people off. Anyone saying 2000 series or 1100 is just guessing and neither one knows more than the other about what's really going on.
To give a very general answer to a question you didn't ask: You will notice a performance difference between the 1080 and the 1080 Ti at 4k.
At lower resolutions, even with settings turned way up, you would hit a CPU limitation on FPS before a 1080 or 1080 ti limited you. But at 4k a lot of stress is put on the GPU, especially at higher quality settings so you would most likely see higher frame rates or be able to run higher quality with acceptable frame rates with the 1080 Ti.
The question of worth is entirely up to you, based on the kinds of games you play and what kind of experience you expect. Google some 1080 ti reviews and see how it compares in gaming to the 1080 to get an idea of the performance difference you can expect and whether or not it's worth it to you.
According to EVGA, your FTW3 has 3 DP ports. 1 HDMI and 1 DVI.
Actually, the 1070 ti's are required by nvidia to not come factory overclocked. Different coolers will allow different GPU Boost clocks and may allow for higher manual overclocking but base frequency is the same on all. They didn't want the 1070 ti taking too big a bite out of the 1080 market share at the time of release.
As stated by thunder-93, not a problem at all. In addition to modding the case you can also use fishing line to hold up the corner, or make a little support out of lego or some other cheap plastic bit.
I think jayztwocents made a video about correcting it:
So you have options but GPU sag itself will not hurt anything as long as the card is otherwise properly installed.
Depends what you're trying to do with your system. But a quick glance over old reviews for the GTX 970 shows it performing about as well as the 780ti, and we know the GTX 1060 3gb performs about the same as a 970 from looking at its reviews. So, in broad terms you're looking at 780ti = 1060 3gb performance. (Plus or minus a few percent.)
I think in general the FTW cards are a higher performance tier than the SC cards, at least as far as factory overclock, cooler design, and PCB go. The current pricing doesn't reflect the actual card's MSRP so you can't judge based on that. If the newegg price for example is from some "newegg marketplace" vendor then they can charge whatever they want.
Check out my build: https://pcpartpicker.com/b/M2D8TW
Some of my description and comments from others might help.
Since I updated the system with that mod I have had no problems with the tint application peeling or bubbling, and that shouldn't even be a concern on real glass.
You are correct, provided you can find a matching water block for your lowest price card then that'd be the most cost effective way to go. No real performance difference between different board partners. I just wanted to answer thoroughly for you or anyone else who might stumble across this post in the future.
It does matter, you have to choose the water block that is compatible with the exact model card you have. Some of the AIB partners like MSI and Asus have custom boards they use for certain models of card. These custom boards will have critical components laid out differently so you need to verify compatibility for proper coverage/alignment.
It shouldn't be a huge problem, just check what cards are available at the price you want and then make sure the water block you choose is compatible with that model. The info should be listed on the water block manufacturers website.
Little known fact about the GTX 1080: it lasts longer if stored in a PC case. Preferably one where it's hooked up to power and if you really want to extend the shelf life you have occasionally run some games through the GPU and VRAM. It's like how letting a car sit in the garage unused is bad for the uhhh... fluids or something. You don't have to ask around or do any research, just trust me...
Lucky for you I happen to run such an optimized storage facility and I'll happily hold onto your card and keep it fresh for you.
But seriously, they are made to handle being overclocked, overvolted, survive dust build up, and even be super cooled with liquid nitrogen. Storing it in the box is the absolute least you have to worry about.
As ugandan_knuckles said, this site is a community forum and it aggregates prices from multiple sites. If you aren't seeing prices from your country/region you can use the drop down in the upper right hand corner of the page to select a location manually. That will force the site to show you prices available from vendors in that area.
People frequently use Lego
Samsung is going to increase manufacturing capacity to help meet the heightened demand. Everything these days uses memory, from GPU's to Phones to all the "smart" devices they make now. Demand is at an all time high.
The other issue impacting overall availability of cards is that there are only a few facilities in the world that can make the actual GPU processors and they have only so much manufacturing capacity. They have to fill other orders and retool their machines to make the next generation of chips. The ability to make 14nm, 12nm, and smaller transistors is a trade secret so it's not like other manufacturers can just swoop in either.
This is 100% correct. On top of that, you need constraints to judge against. Like budget, resolution, and minimum performance goals(60fps, ultra, etc). Once you have those you can look at card reviews and see which ones fit your requirements best. I will recommend techpowerup for their great comparison charts in all the review articles.
Fractal Meshify or something with similarly high airflow.
I think that's a pretty reasonable price for the Hybrid Ti. Its MSRP was around $850 so in this market $50 over that is pretty good. I mean we're seeing 1060's selling for over $100 over MSRP which is terrible if you look at it from a performance per dollar perspective. Congrats.
I agree with Luca, you don't have any PC without at least some RAM. May as well drop 80 and get the thing up and running. But don't get your hopes up for prices to drop "soon". It's going to take a while for manufacturing capacities to keep up with demand.
I suggest doing some extra chores, shoveling snow, or registering your bicycle with Uber or Lyft to make a little extra cash in the meantime.
Sounds like a completely normal behavior. No need to worry. That card probably has a 0 db fan mode. Which means when it's not under enough load to make it heat up the fans won't spin. Try a demanding game or running some benchmarks and see if the fans spin.
Is everything else working fine? The system boots up and the screen displays normally?
RAM is a cache for your Hard Drive...
I think you're referring to a RAM drive. Which is something that can be done in software using applications like RAMDisk.