RAM is fine. to get DDR3-2400 needs more voltage, and everyone is exceeding spec voltage when overclocking memory.
finding a good ivy bridge board is hard. you want 7x chipsets. H77, Q77, Z77 etc.
sorry to assume USD. It's where I live.
Good luck with your upgrade.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
For less than $200 you can upgrade the CPU as I described in my last post. The next step up is above, otherwise the performance increase won't be noticeable.
And you might need a better CPU cooler to overclock the CPU.
I'm in the upgrade the CPU camp.
You won't be able to sell the MoBo or RAM for much. CPU you can probably get $50 before selling fees/shipping.
For less than $200 you can get a used i5 4690. Sell your G3258 and net about $40 after fees so for $160 you have a much better system than you have now.
the 4690 is a decent i5 and will do fine in that MoBo.
I have an overclocked G3258 and I love it, however when I was overclocking and benching it on windows, having only two cores without HyperThreading was noticeable. To be candid, it was worse than a stock clocked i5 laptop when trying to do multiple things like open browser windows and edit a document in word.
I built this to be a headless linux system so the single core speed/price are perfect for my needs, but for a windoze desktop, I want four cores minimum.
What kind of performance are you getting?
smallnetbuilder is a great resource.
If you only need wired performance the Asus N66U or R is a solid and very fast router with a four port gigabit switch. it is only wireless N, but it can be found regularly for $49.99 refurbished.
If you need AC, then read the reviews on smallnetbuilder as there is a wide range of price and performance and features.
What I do is:
1) backup ALL my data somwhere else
2) Clone from old drive to new drive. ( see cloning notes below)
3a) remove old drive and put it in a very safe place. In a desktop this means I unplug both power and SATA , but I'll usually leave the drive mounted in the case.
3b) move new drive to the SATA0 port, or whatever is the best primary SATA port for your main drive
4) boot, test, validate run benchmarks and be happy I have a new drive.
... some time later after I'm sure I have everything from my old drive ...
I either recycle the drive into another system or reformat it and add it as extra storage. For example, the boot drive on my hand-me-down linux/minecraft server is a second generation Intel 80 GB and it is perfect and super fast.
On the cloning, I've used Samsung magician and it is good. I've also used Acronis, and EaseUS disk copy.
Sorry, but I don't know about that processor.
as far as the current server,
Is it skipping cycles right now?
How many users?
Windoze or Linux?
Have you tried adding an SSD?
The time MC spends writing out world updates eats into the game loop.
I run a small minecraft server on a G3258 OC to 4.0 Ghz ( can do 4.2Ghz but doesn't need it). Has a second-gen 80GB Intel SSD and it screams. Max users is around 6 so I don't know when it runs out of gas, but 6 doesn't kill it. It has vanilla 1.10 and Att ack B- T eam forge 1.64 (intentional typo). Sometimes both running at the same time.
edit: And the server runs Linux, ubuntu 14 LTS, and Only minimal services are enabled so it is very lean which also makes it very fast.
My point is, even if you can OC that Xeon, the cost to cool it might be more than building a small server.
Try moving it to a different outlet on a different circuit in your house. Try a different powerstrip.
If it still does this, pull the PSU, use the "tester" that they suply and try it in a different house and see then return it if it still does.
the 550GS is a decent unit and should not make any noise.
Yup. Silence is golden.
I agree with SSDs there is no reason to consider 10K rpm drives.
had issues with reliability of the 10K rpm velociraptors in about 5 out of 25-30 workstations.
Even though all were under warranty, we replaced all with 7200 RPM WD Caviar blacks and no-one complained about performance.
and no-one complained about failed drives after they were replaced.
I'd suggest comparing specific boards vs a chipset.
no wifi is best for gaming.
In order of performance,
then finally wifi.
$10 / $20 to $50+ on eBay for the 9800
$8 to $20 for the Quadro 3800
on the EVGA, the GS/G1/G2/GQ are indicators of the manufacturer. ( G being Gold rated) and there are matching P2 or B1 etc.
G2 is built by superflower and is a top notch product.
GS is built by seasonic, but it is not their top-end platform
colinreay is correct that the G2 550 is a great unit.
I tend to put a little more PSU in than I need, but for the "best" you would be looking at a platinum rated PSU built by seasonic or superflower. the EVGA P2 is right at that price point, maybe a little above.
But I'm not sure that platinum is worth the extra money.
I run seasonic x-650s in several systems
the EVGA G2 650 or 750 is right now a better price so if I were buying I'd probably go with the G2 750 just because I like it better than the 650.
to be honest, I'd start a new build from scratch and price compare every step of the way. I'd post it in the "how is my build" forum and get input from everyone.
I can't help you on prices since I'm in US, and don't really know what is available. What is low priced here in US might be very costly in the UK.
Again, knowing your budget at the beginning is very important.
But yes, you can go with a less costly, non modular PSU, but there is alot of junk out there and PSUs are not a part to go cheap on. you may not need an Gold rated PSU as the two I listed, and there are several bronze version for about 20 dollars or so less that are decent.
I posted some comments and suggested below. I suggest starting with two things.
1) what is your budget and
2) what games and resolution are you gaming at.
You can then target an overall build to match your budget and see if it will be good enough.
another example with a higher end CPU, and an Rx480 graphics card.
You could omit the SSD and save some money, and I think I'd go with the EVGA power supply listed on the other spec's I posted..
so here is an example of newer, but lower end. . I changed aUS price list to UK prices so this is an example, but there may be similar parts at a better price in the UK. What I'm saying is this is just an example as a possible starting point.
The changes suggested are to move you onto current generation technology. It isn't that it is faster or cheaper. the fourth generation intel processors and MoBos are good, however they will start to get harder to find if/when you want to upgrade or if a part fails and need replacing.
Since the price of fourth generation and sixth generation are close, there isn't really a reason to go with the older parts unless it is a lot cheaper which it isn't.
So I think the problem is, some of the "default builds" on the front page are our of date and if people follow them they are still based on the older, fourth gen.
I'm a seasonic fan, but that PSU at that price is not a good deal.
I'd look at this EVGA 550 G2, built by superflower for $65 after rebate.
Any single GTX 10x0 graphics card should be fine with this.
Since it is an EVGA factory rebate, I can't see how it would. You usually have to cut out the UPC from the box which makes it nearly impossible to return to newegg.
650 G2 is $84.99 after rebate:
I don't disagree with anything you are saying. I have Seasonic X-650s in three systems and they are fantastic. I may SLI a pair of GTX 970s if we upgrade other systems, but otherwise I plan to stay with single graphics cards.
On the efficiency, read closely the test results and you'll both are equally efficient on the low end, and cross over to 90% efficiency around 150 watts. It is hard to tell but it looks like the 750 might even cross 90% a little lower and be more efficient across the 200 300 400 watt range.
In the end it really is minor differences and I think the 650 will be excellent for your build.
agree with Shakaron
I updated the CPU, and RAM and if you can find this MoBo in the UK it seems to be a solid board.
Gigabyte GA-H170-GAMING 3 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard
Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor £177.90
G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2400 Memory £32.87
650 should cover the SLI, but I'd consider the 750 G2 if it not that much different in price.
the 750 G2 is 94.99 after $15.00 rebate today on newegg, and it bumps down to 89.99 after rebate occasionally.
The 650 G2 is 84 after rebate today on newegg. for the extra $10 I like the 750 over the 650.
Small but subtle differences, one being a 10 year warranty for the 750 vs 7 year on the 650. slightly different cables, and overall more headroom.
My main gripe on the 650 G2 is the PCI cables which have an 8 pin and a 6 pin power connector on the card side. Most other PSUs have two 8 pins with the split connector 6+2. If the graphics card needs two 8 pin power connectors you have to run two cables.
May not matter depending on the card you choose, but if you have two cards in SLI and both need 8 pin connectors, You'll need a six to eight pin adapter for each card. Again, minor nit pick but still.
I have the 1TB version of this drive and it is doing well, quiet and I have no complaints.
I used the clips that came with the R1 ultimate. a little challenging to get on but they did work.
research using the TV for gaming.
Some of the Samsung TVs are limited to 30 FPS over HDMI.
It would suck to build a screaming gaming system and be throttled by the display.
I've had good success with the 1TB WD blue WD10EZEX
It is fairly quiet and performs reasonably well.
I have the EVGA 500B in my low-dollar hand-me-down Linux build, and it was $15 after rebate.
so factor that into your purchase choice. The PSU isn't worth all that much.
But, it isn't a horrible PSU, just low-end.
@remiscs,I agree PSUs are not to be skimped on, but as far as listing the spec, perhaps we'll just agree to disagree. Listing a spec to look for is an easy way to weed out the old crap that is still floating around.
Anyway, I also agree solid brands ( which is really solid manufacturers and great reviews) is worth the effort to find and worth the budget in the long run.
agree to read up on the exact unit you are thinking about ordering .
Brands in some cases are just a marketing brand. Corsair and EVGA and others have their PSUs manufactured by different companies, and even within a brand there can be good and not so good.
Even brands that are also manufacturers ( like Seasonic ) have varying levels of good.
I would not agree that every power supply has all the right cables. It might, or it might not.
If it is a modern power supply and is listed as an ATX 12V v2.3 ( or higher) / EPS 12V v2.91 or higher it likely has what is needed for a "modern" motherboard and system peripherals.
Semi modular means the main cables ( the ATX 20+4 pin) and CPU cables may be permanately attached, and you can pick and choose which optional cables you want.
Things to watch for are CPU power to the motherboard. Some boards have 8 pin ( EPS style) connectors, and some have 4 pin (PCI) connectors. Most good PSUs have a split 4+4 pin power connector that will work with either.
I would find a way to run wired.
Or use a powerline adapater
Last resort, Wifi
My guess is the Modem that has a router built in can be setup in bridge mode to a real router. My cable modem is setup this way. It isn't cox however so YMMV.
I'm fairly sure Seagate does not own WD.
edit: I see an acquisition announcement, but they are still operating as separate companies. did this close?
edit2: it was a April 1 announcement in 2014...
Anyway, I still have more failures of seagate 1TB and 2TB than all my other drives combined.
everything you could possibly want to know about x264 is on this thread.
except where to down load it :rolleyes"
Version 2.06 9/15/2015
are you using HWiNFO64? it is one of the better tools for measuring data from all the sensors.
CPU Z is an OK tool, but for memory, grab the asrock tool above. the sole purpose is to read memory timings.
no math or wondering required.
sounds like a decent OC.
24 hours of prime 95 is the gold standard to ensure stability.
Be sure to get the right version that does not overheat haswell / devils canyon.
Some feel less is OK.
x264 is another to run for a long duration to be sure.
80C core is getting warm. Personally I like to stay under 70C when stress testing.
what temps are you measuring, and with what software?
Also, is the voltage you are reporting VID or vCORE?
What software are you using to report on voltages?
And, make sure you are monitoring temps very closely.
I would read the how-to guides and follow them step by step, and take notes.
The Haswell / Devil's canyon version on OCN is excellent and helped me a lot.
I'd also look for a forum or thread specific to the MoBo you have and see if there are any tips and tricks or pitfalls to avoid.
I would use the stock intel cooler that comes with the processor and save the money.
I won't buy another seagate drive. I'd swap that for a WD blue 1TB. They are 7200 RPM and perform well.
You will be happier in the long run pulling cable. I have one room we have not pulled cable to. We went with powerline type adapter and it is way better than wireless but still not as good as ethernet.
I've found bulk cable is easier to hide along and behind baseboards, but you will need to add connectors.
but back to your wireless card, in slot _3 it didn't look like it would interfere a lot with the fans of the graphics card so I'd give it a try there.
Another option is to buy another router and set it up in bridge mode. this allows you to position the router antenna's better. But since you already own the WiFi card this is extra cost.
If you are earning money using your computer and time is money then yes it may be worth it depending on the kind of workload.
Otherwise, it is just a luxury, and likely the 850 EVO is fast enough for just about anything.
It is common to have bottom mount PSUs pull air from the bottom of the case. You said it has a dust filter so as long as there is clearance it should be fine.
If not raise the case up an inch so there is unrestricted air flow to the PSU.
Also, clean the screens often. The floor is dirtier in my house than the top of a desk.
I have the Cryorig R1 and I swapped the fans out for Phantek PH-F140 HP just for idle speed quietness. They happen to be white / Red.
checkout my build and you can see them installed.
They are really, really quiet at idle and at load I think they are about the same as the Cryorig 140s, just a different tone.
what is the rest of your system? I would choose the video editing software and read about how it works better or worse with the two processors.
For gaming, the 6600K when overclocked will out perform the 6700 for most games.
Are saying the wifi card will not fit in PCIEX1_3 ?
Gigabyte Z97X gaming7 and a wifi card Asu PCE-AC68
On my Gaming 5 the top PCIe _1 slot is blocked by the CPU cooler, and the PCIe _2 slot is covered by the graphics card, but the _3 slot is open and accessible, and with low profile card like the Wifi card I wouldn' worry much about heat.
But, that said go wired networking if you can in any possible way, you will be happier.
ok, you should give a budget then.
why do you not want Z170? it is a great chipset and typically mobo's with this are of higher quality than the B or H 170s
Asus Z170 Aura