Bottlenecking only really occurs when you take two opposites and try to put them together. For example, a dual core pentium and a 1080ti and try to run 4k. You should be fine with a 2080/ti and your 6700k. I would imagine that the 6700k will be a solid chip for the next few years at the least.
This is what I would do for that price range. Depending on what he is planning on doing you might be able to step down to an RTX 2060 or GTX 1080 for about $300 USD.
If you can't get to the BIOS that is most likely a motherboard issue. Some other things you can check is to make sure that your components are seated completely and properly. To troubleshoot you can also remove everything that you don't need and try to boot it. This would leave you CPU/cooler, board, 1 stick of RAM, and PSU. See if you get a signal from that, then add in pieces on at a time until it breaks again. You can also check in your case to make sure the standoffs are properly installed. If you don't have standoffs your motherboard will most likely be straight against metal which can cause shorts. You should also check the PSU, modern PSUs are auto switching, but if it isn't then make sure it is set to the current voltage from the wall (110 for NA and 220 for EU). If you try that then you might have just been really unlucky and gotten another bunk board.
Try those suggestions and let me know what you discover.
I would disagree on some of those. The price/ performance is terrible, customer support is not great, fixing issues is about middle of the road in my experiences. With that said the quality I have experienced is superb. The build quality is pretty solid and the reliability of the computer is great. I agree that you could build a desktop or buy a laptop with similar specs for far less, but a solid amount of the cost is the name and the closed ecosystem. Based on the information given I was not sure if OP had an apple device that they may want to add to the ecosystem. Personally I don't like Apple, mostly because of the high price and the fact that you pretty much have to talk to Apple if you have a problem. With that said I can appreciate a solid product when I see one.
I did take a look at all of the comments on OP's post and I would recommend that if you truly want to help then you might want to make a substantial and useful comment on the post and not just pick apart one word/ sentence of another users post.
I might be wrong, but that build seemed way overkill for what you plan to use it for. The only one that I am unsure about is the digital art. I don't know how much art you plan on doing and how large the works are. Otherwise this will be more than enough for gaming and making YouTube videos.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
I swapped the CPU to a 9600k. You get 6c/6t which is more than enough for most games right now since games are just now starting to take advantage of more than 4 cores.
The cooler is fine. The motherboard is mostly personal preference so long as it meets your needs. If you are going with a crazy high OC then you might want to swap boards since this is more on the 'budget' end of Gigabyte's lineup.
The RAM I stepped down to 16 GB @ 3200. This might be a section where you need to bump it back up to 32 GB for your art, but I don't know how much RAM you typically use when drawing.
I swapped the storage for a 250 GB 970 EVO from Samsung. This is a fantastic drive all around. I also added a 1 TB WD Blue drive for mass storage. You can probably find a better 1 TB drive if you need a certain read/write to be higher and you don't care about the other stats. You might also want to get a 500 GB-1 TB NVMe drive if you need a large scratch disk. If that is the case then you can go with a 1 TB 2.5" drive from Samsung.
I kept the GPU and case.
The PSU I just swapped to one that is a little cheaper.
I added a 27", 1080p, 144hz monitor. I don't know if you need 100% coverage of the sRGB spectrum or something like that, but for gaming this monitor will be solid.
Let me know if you have any questions!
Specific programs? Target settings and performance? Budget? Other constraints?
I would swap the cooler for a Corsair H115i or H100i RGB platinum. I was looking into getting that same cooler and a lot of reviews said that it failed within the first year. I would also swap as many things as possible to the same ecosystem of RGB (Corsair would probably require the fewest swaps) unless you want random strobing from all of your fans or have to control them all from different software.
What are you using the build for? Target settings and performance? Specific games and programs are useful. Budget? Other constraints?
This is the one that I have used in the past. A great option and has an antenna that can be placed to get better LOS to the router.
this laptop seems like the way to go. You get a 4c/8t CPU, 8 GB of RAM in dual channel, a 256 GB SSD, not a 2-in-1, dedicated graphics that are on par with a GT 1030 and should be fine for minecraft at 1080p low settings, and the battery life is reported at 10+ hours by multiple review sites and the laptop page on Amazon boasts 15 hours.
As far as comparing laptops you can transfer most of your knowledge from desktops to laptops. You just need to take into account the power draw. 4 cores is pretty solid for most multitasking, 8 GB of RAM is a minimum, the screen doesn't need to be fancy unless you need high accuracy and portability in one, and an SSD for a boot drive. For reputable brands you will be looking for the big name brands like Dell, HP, Lenovo, Acer, Apple, and ASUS. There are some newer (in comparison to the brands I just mentioned) names like Huawei, Razer, and Gigabyte (newer to the laptop scene) that also make solid products.
Can you give me an explanation of how your network is set up now? A link to a drawing on Imgur or other site would be best, but if you can try to describe it as best you can that could work. Are you experiencing any issues that warrant the upgrade or do you just feel like it is time to upgrade based on age? How is your local network only 100Mbps? Any motherboard from Pentium 4 era on should have at least one NIC that is 1Gbps.
It can be difficult to recommend routers because some ISP's have limitations on what can be used with their equipment and even if you use all of your own equipment they have restrictions on what you can use.
Since you already have 3 monitors I wouldn't recommend the Viotek one since it is so wide it would essentially replace 2 of your current monitors and then you only get the 75hz refresh rate. The MSI and ViewSonic ones are almost identical with the exception of the input lag. The MSI is 1 ms while the ViewSonic is 5 ms. If 4 ms of lag time is worth $60 USD then go with the MSI one otherwise the ViewSonic would be my pick.
This guide is only about a month old and contains a lot of really solid information that is laid out well and can help you know what to look for.
The links are to the same monitor, but you mentioned Amazon so I included that one as well.
This monitor seems to fit your needs. For about $230 USD you can 27", 144hz, curved, and MVA panel. The panel should be leagues better than your current TN panel, but even modern TN panels are fairly good.
I prefer the Dynamic, but it will be up to you. If they both do what you need them to do then you will need to see which one you like better aesthetically. I can recommend cases all day, but you are the one that will be looking at it.
I don't see a reason why you should water cool this card, but to each their own.
You can probably jerry-rig a water block from a similar PCB layout, but I wouldn't recommend it as you can often run into issues where certain pieces are just a little bit different, but you can't tell until you have bought the product. The easiest way to water cool this card would be something like this that is supposed to be universal to the GPU, but can only be used with NZXT AIO's. You could also just grab an AIO and fit it to the card well enough and then slap a fan onto the VRM, VRAM, and other smaller parts to keep them cool.
In terms of specs when comparing RAM you will want to look at revision (DDR2, DDR3, DDR4), speed (the 3000 at the end or look for 3000 Mhz), the capacity (16 GB), the kit size (2 x 8 GB instead of 1 x 16 GB), the timings (which would look something like this: Timing 16-18-18-38), and the latency (something like this: CAS Latency 16). For raw specs you will want to look for the correct revision for your CPU and board, higher speed (Ryzen scales pretty well with faster RAM, while Intel does a little but not as much), an appropriate capacity and kit size for what you have selected for the board and what you plan on doing with the build (you don't need 64 GB if you are just gaming for example) (2 sticks in dual channel will often make more sense than 1 stick in single channel), for timings and latency you will ideally want the lowest you can get, but with modern processors it doesn't really matter all that much.
As far as comparing between companies that otherwise have identical specs, you will want to look for a reputable brand. (Corsair, G.Skill, ASUS) There are other companies such as Team, Geil, and Adata that I would not personally recommend. I have had multiple issues with Adata in the past that were not resolved. Team and Geil have fair reputations, but I would rather spend a few more bucks to get something that is almost universally trusted. You might have to try them out for yourself and see. You can also look for add-on's like heat spreaders. These contribute to keep the RAM a bit cooler and can help provide more stability in your system as well as add some nice aesthetics.
Hope this helped! Let me know if you have any more questions!
I have done work with both of those from my laptop, which is 2c/4t and 8 GB of RAM. If you are doing light work with both of those then you really don't need much. If you are doing heavier work then you will want to look for a beefier rig. How large are the programs your friend is creating in VS and how many VM's will be running at the same time in a worst case scenario? Will these tasks be running together? How much other multitasking is going to be taking place?
The storage won't affect FPS, but if you are experiencing slow loading times then it would more than likely help. What settings are you playing at? The 1070 and 1600 should be able to push 144 FPS easily at 1080p medium to high settings if not higher settings. Are your drivers up to date? I was able to push 240 FPS in OW with an i5 6500 and a GTX 1080. I also did play at all low settings with 75% render scale because I needed to get rid of as much visual clutter as possible, but even in larger AAA titles like Metro, Titanfall, and others I was able to get well above 100 FPS with high settings with that combo.
I still don't know what you plan to do with the build. SLI I would not recommend since most games can't take advantage of it. If you are doing something like rendering that can take advantage of multiple GPU's then might want to, but you won't need SLI.
If you can give more information related to what you will be doing with your build I can help better. From the comments on the parts page though you mentioned that you were using RAID 1 for projects and other stuff. This is fine, but you will have half of the space of the drives (1 TB usable). You might be better with 2x 1 TB drives instead of 4x 500 GB drives. You also said that you will use RAID 0 for backups, but RAID 0 is striping and would be the last thing you would want for a backup drive.
Glad I could help
Motherboard will not impact performance in any meaningful way. You have a pretty fair build already, so I am not sure the reason for the upgrade. If you can provide more information I can help better. Are you not hitting your target FPS? Video quality? What is your storage solution like? Budget?
You might check in 'Create and format hard disk partitions' in the control panel. You might need to initialize the drive and create a partition.
The only things I swapped was CPU, RAM, and GPU.
The GPU I swapped to a used model from ebay.ca. You can find them for about $150 CAD which saved a bunch of money in the budget.
With the money I saved from the GPU I went with a 2600 over the 2200g. You get 2 extra cores and 3x the threads. This should help in multitasking as well as gaming.
The RAM you need to switch even if you don't buy a used GPU and go back to the 2200g. Ryzen scales with RAM speed and bandwidth. Going from 2666 to 3200 will see a noticeable improvement in most tasks, and going from single channel to dual channel (double the bandwidth available) will be huge.
Everything else looks good. Let me know if you have any questions!
This or the 750 watt would work well.
Why would you ask for changes after buying the parts? If you do need to change parts you will have to go through returning the current parts and then buying new parts. Why would you not ask us to check before you bought anything?
From a quick look I can assume you are doing music editing, but I don't know for sure. I don't know a budget or what programs you will be running with this PC. I also am concerned as to why you are mixing RAM kits. That board is overpriced and you can get a comparable board for a bit cheaper. You could also get a better cooler, you don't need special thermal paste unless you are doing some serious OCing. You might be able to get a different GPU depending on what you are doing with the build. There is a lot of missing information and the fact that you have purchased some of the parts doesn't help.
You can scale it down to a R5 2600 and see similar performance, but will save a fair bit of money. You also will want an SSD and step down to a standard HDD. A hybrid drive is not worth it. If you are going to be storing footage for later use you will want a large HDD and maybe an NVMe drive for scratch if you plan to do editing on the videos. Other than that it should be fine, so long as your laptop can handle the stream you are trying to push.
LN2 is liquid nitrogen. People use it to get super crazy OCs. It is super fun to watch so you should look it up. 450W with a light OC should be fine.
You might see better value with a Ryzen 2600. It won't necessarily perform better flat out, but it will provide better price/ performance. The Adobe suite is optimized for Intel, so if you only use PP and AE then stick with the 9600k and you will see solid performance.
I like the Cryorig H7. I have used it before and it kept my CPU nice and chilly for a solid price. The Dark Rock Pro 4 and Noctua NH-D15 are amazing air coolers as well. If you want a liquid cooler I wouldn't go less than a 240mm AIO. I use the Corsair H150i 360mm and I love it.
Typically you should make sure you have the whole parts list set before you start buying a piece here and there, otherwise you might run into something where you should have gotten a different CPU or something that changes the whole build.
With that said the CPU, board, and GPU are all solid picks. The Freezer 7 is a fairly dated cooler and you can get much better performance from something newer. The RAM is fine. The SSD/ HDD combo is a solid choice. The case and PSU are also solid.
SLI isn't supported in a lot of games so I wouldn't recommend a second 1070. If I don't have some sort of parameters to measure against it is a bit difficult to make a solid recommendation. If you just want a large upgrade then a 2080 would fit that. If you just want 1080p 60fps then you don't need to upgrade. If you want a GPU at around $300 USD then the RTX 2060 would be a solid choice. Other than that I can't really recommend one over another given so little information. If you get more information feel free to comment here or PM me and I can try to give a better recommendation!
The 2600 is a the king of price/ performance right now. You might be able to go with something like the 2200G or 2400G to save a bit of money.
The board is nothing fancy, but will get the job done.
The FX 8350 only accepts DDR3 RAM so I don't know if you have DDR4 laying around or if you just hit the wrong key, but you will need some RAM for the new build. The 120 GB A400 SSD will be enough for the OS and maybe a few programs, but it will be a solid upgrade over the HDD you currently have for your OS.
The PSU is also nothing crazy, but is a solid unit and will get the job done.
You might not see ideal performance depending on the program you are using for editing, but you should see 144+ at almost max settings in most games at 1080p. I would recommend looking at a 1 TB HDD as 500 GB can fill up quickly with games and projects. You will likely see similar performance from a Dark Rock Pro 4 or a similarly beefy air cooler over the water cooler, but if you want water then go for it. As far as RGB I haven't used the Node Pro, but so long as you use all Corsair for you fans and lighting strips you should be able to control everything through the Corsair software.
Pinning down a specific laptop can be tricky. It seems like you figured out your issue though, so if you have any more questions feel free to ask on this post or PM me!
It seems like a PCIe WiFi card would solve this with the exception of the dedicated CLI. You can use the CMD to make changes to the network settings, but it also should have a GUI to select which one you want. You can also set different wireless profiles that you can change between at will. You can set this to the three different routers and change when needed.
Past that I don't know of a device that would accomplish this without having your own like Cisco router/ switch that you configure, but it would be a pain to make changes to Cisco gear on the fly like that.
Typically sites that have an 'OC' option just have it as a check box and not as a slider or something so it jumped to 600W to protect you/ your parts and themselves in case they suggest a 450W and then you try to push a LN2 OC and blow something up. If you are doing a light OC then the 450W will be fine, but if you want to push a heavy OC then you will need something closer to the 600W.
If you click on the wattage when you are looking at your parts list it shows you a range for each part. I believe that the range is from idle to under load. It then shows the combined high end wattage as the total theoretical wattage. So it would be under load. The CXM 450 should be enough, since a light OC would put it right around 300 watts.
You should be fine. Most people recommend upgrading the PSU when you do upgrades so that you aren't using an old PSU with new hardware. Your PSU is not terribly old so you should be fine.
What games are you trying to play? Resolution? Budget? Target settings? I will need more information to make a solid recommendation. The 1070 is a solid card for 1080p and light 1440p.
What is your budget? If you have the budget then go with an RTX 2080/ti. If you don't then the 2060 would be a solid pick to take advantage of the quick refresh rate. Depending on the games you are playing you could be fine with a 1070 as well. I will need more information to make a solid recommendation.
There is a difference between Type-C and Thunderbolt 3. Type-C is the physical connection shape, the logical connection could be USB 2.0, 3.0, 3.1, or Thunderbolt. Each logical connection has different bandwidth's and abilities as far as adapters. Most Ryzen chips don't have an iGPU so you wouldn't be able to. You will also likely run into issues with an adapter or hub. I would stick to the standard graphics connections on the board or GPU.
Overall there is only about a 7% difference in performance. For streaming you don't need the 9900k.
It will depend on what else he is going to use the build for, as well as the budget. If he has the budget to build a whole new PC no problem then he can go with the 2600 (just OC it and you will get the same performance as the x) and sell the pre-built. If there might be a budget issue then go with the 6700 and get a cheaper B250 board from a site like eBay. Since you can't OC anyway there is no reason to get a 'Z' board. I would invest in some 3000-3200 Mhz RAM though. The 6700 won't really be able to take advantage of it, but when/if he switches to Ryzen you should see really solid performance.
No matter what you choose it won't be 'future-proof'. Games are just now starting to take advantage of more than 4 cores, but it can only really use 6 cores, and only in some games. A 4c/8t CPU will be fine for a few years. You also should not bottleneck any GPU, especially a 2070.
You can get the MSI B450 Gaming Pro Carbon AC motherboard for a similar price and I feel like it is one of the best B450 boards available. If you like the ROG board then go with that.
Depending on the programs you are using you might like the extra couple of cores that come with the 2700/x, but the 2600x will perform well too. You can probably save some money by going with the 2600 over the 2600x and just OCing since they are identical chips except the clock speeds.
The GPU is solid, but depending on what level of rendering you are working with you might be better served with a 2080 ti for the extra VRAM. Without a PCPP parts list it is difficult to compare prices though. Of the top of my head you should be fine with the 2070 for a solid value.
The RAM is solid, but you might need 32 GB depending on how much multitasking you are doing.
I would recommend a second NVMe SSD for a scratch drive. You will see far better performance over a standard HDD for working on projects.
The HDD, BOX, and PSU are all fine.
Overall it is a solid build. Just some tweaks here and there to get the most out of it.
Depending on the use case you might be able to go with a R5 instead of R7. If you already have the RAM then that is fine, but I would recommend at least 3000 since Ryzen scales pretty well with faster RAM. I would also suggest a better cooler. The 212 EVO is just about a step up from the stock Intel cooler. Something like a Dark Rock Pro 4, Noctua NH-D15, or Cryorig H7 should be a better choice for air cooler.
Are you asking for suggestions on parts to change after you have already bought most of the parts?
Budget? Use case? Target settings and performance? Other constraints?
If you are selling a build then you should probably post in the "For Sale or Trade" section. You will find many more people looking to buy a rig there.
Have you tried restarting the router? Modem? Access point? These might all be in one box if you are using the equipment provided from your ISP. Can you try using a wired connection to see if it is just WiFi that has a problem?