There are definitely better budget cases out there. In my posting of the build, you can see that I complained about it being overpriced and not worth it. Although I don't believe I paid that much for it at the time of purchase. If I remember correctly, it was more like $60 but even for that, I wish I had gotten something else.
Looks great. The combination of the 2600 and 1660 Ti will easily provide you with 60 FPS on high settings with most titles.
So, I built this for about $850 a couple of months ago. I built it to resell but in the time that I had it, it was pretty awesome for the price. It's very 'well-rounded' if you ask me. Easily achieves 60 FPS @ 1080p on high settings for most titles. The only goal for this system was to game but I have no doubt that between the 9400F and 16GB of RAM, you could easily use programs such as Photoshop, Lightroom, etc.
You can view my completed build here.
PCPartPicker Part List
Just so you know, you would be able to update a B470/X470 to work with Zen 2. Just need an updated BIOS.
The AMD 5700XT outperforms the 2070 SUPER at $100 less. If you don't 'need' ray tracing, DLSS or tensor cores, it might be something to consider.
You might bump the PSU to 650W if you'll upgrade in the future. It will also provide more headroom for OCing.
You mention having a budget but did not mention what that budget is.
Looks pretty good.
The 2700 (while at a great price) is pretty overkill for a gaming-only PC. If a Ryzen 5 2600/2600X or even Intel Core i5 (8th or 9th gen) is cheaper, you can do that if you want to save a few bucks.
You may want more than 500GB of storage. This depends on the type of games you plan to play but most AAA titles will cost you anywhere from 60-100GB each so it can fill up rather quickly. You could add a 1-2TB HDD for not much money. HDDs are perfectly fine for gaming - it won't affect your FPS but it will of course, take a few seconds longer to startup the game.
650W is a bit overkill. A 550W will do just fine unless you ever make a huge jump in computing power. Only do this if a 550W is significantly cheaper.
Looks pretty good. The only thing that stands out is the PSU. 750W is pretty overkill for a 9400F/1660 Ti build. 550W would be enough.
Hey no worries. Any questions, let me know.
For the outside of the case, I just use these. They're a little bulky but far better than looking at loose cables. I use them from the back of my PC all the way down to the surge protector mounted underneath my desk.
As for the inside of the case, I only zip tie the cables in the back panel. For the front side of the case, I use Antec cable combs
For the price of that MoBo, you can get way better. I included the B450 Aorus Elite for the same price. B350 wouldn't support Zen+ out of the box anyway and you would've needed a compatible CPU (Zen) in order to make the update to support Zen+ (Ryzen 2000 series).
That PSU is overkill as well. 550W is more than enough with your current parts list and remember, as new generation parts come out, most of the time, they are more efficient than the generation before. You shouldn't ever need more than 550W unless you make a massive jump in computing power. If you think you'll ever jump from a 'mid-level' to 'high-spec' PC, stick with 650 otherwise you'll be okay.
At the moment, I'm leaning towards a OnePlus 7 Pro or waiting for the Pixel 4. I've really invested a lot into Google products/software over the last couple of years so the convenience of a Pixel is untouchable when it all works together. Google Photos, Google assistant, Google Drive, etc etc. Plus, the camera and stock-Android is the best. To me.
I do, however, love the price point, power and notchless design of the OnePlus 7 Pro. Especially the 90hz display. I haven't even had the opportunity to play with a phone that has a refresh rate higher than 60hz but if it's anything like my first time going from a 60hz monitor to a 144hz, it would be incredible.
I'm loving it. Dark mode everything
I've definitely been considering it!
Loved it. My only true complaint is the power. I'm starting to feel its age when opening apps or having many open at the same time. Could also be due to the damage lol. That's partially the reason I avoided the Pixel 3 due to no upgrade in RAM (still 4GB) and I also don't like the notch.
I've looked into repairing but by the time you account for a screen replacement, digitizer replacement and whatever is going on with the speakers/microphone, it doesn't make much sense to fix it. For only a bit more, I could just get a new phone. Or easily buy another Pixel 2 XL.
Looks great! Did you paint the radiator or is that actually the H100i SE?
Thanks! I understand that these 13" MacBooks with the i7 is somewhat rare to find so I'm glad to have it. I paid $120 and it's in perfect cosmetic condition besides a scratch on the top lid. The skin will cover that up so I'm not too worried. It'll be a total investment of about $350-400 once I'm done. Not bad considering.
That wasn't me. I upvoted to bring you back to 1.
Good to know!
I've seen these brackets that allow you to remove the optical drive and the bracket doubles as a 2.5" enclosure for a new drive. Might be something I will look into although I won't need two drives for my uses.
I use a 1TB SU800 in my desktop and love it. I don't need the 860 Pro. I'll probably settle for something like an MX500 or 860 Evo.
Ah, definitely too much for my uses haha.
13-inch, mid 2012 non-retina.
Thanks for these! Good to know the RAM isn't soldered.
Ohh, my apologies. That's correct.
Lol! That's awesome. If I had an AIO at the time, the PC-O11 would've been great but my CPU was just getting too hot.. Beautiful case though. I hope to revisit it when I'm ready.
Hey no worries. I totally understand. I have yet to do my first custom loop and believe me, I understand the temptation to do so. Especially with that distribution plate. I originally used the PC-O11 for my current build but switched to the Meshify C for airflow. I was, however, running an air cooled system at the time. Now I have a Kraken X52.
$260 on 6 of the LL120s?? They should be 90 for a set of 3 with the Lighting Node Pro. Or whatever it's called.
I would consider the SSD upgrade vs the RAM. If that RAM worked for you before the lightning, it will work now. You might consider that upgrade at a later time though. You could always look around for a smokin good RAM deal on Facebook, eBay, etc.
Gotcha. Well, I wish the best of luck to you. Get a GPU and get back to gaming!
Not to criticize by any means but Zen 2 has practically no headroom for overclocking which kind of defeats the purpose of spending a bunch of money for a custom water cooling loop but I do understand wanting it from an aesthetic standpoint. Just don't build the loop with a bunch of OCing intentions because you won't get much out of it. Otherwise, you might consider slapping in a 360mm AIO instead.
Overall, your build looks great. I don't think I would change a thing and yes, I do agree with the 3700X having enough power for your plans of 1440p gaming and 1080p streaming. My 2700X handles it beautifully.
As for fans, the LL120s are probably the best if you're wanting RGB. I say that because of software. Corsair's RGB software is, by far, better than the rest and it will integrate perfectly. The only problem with Corsair components is that you'll end up dumping a ton of money into Corsair so you can have it all sync up with the same software.
Woah, that sucks, I'm sorry. I used to live in FL and I remember all the crazy storms we would get. Is insurance helping out with what you lost?
Are you positive that no other hardware is damaged? I would be 100% sure before you invest money into the components that you believe are fried. If other things end up damaged, it could be in your best interest to go ahead and save a budget of $800 or so which would easily get you whole new PC that is far more powerful than what you have.
For the budget and the rest of your hardware, I would probably suggest a 1660 Ti as a GPU. That's a very solid card that will provide you with 1080p60 gaming all day long. On esports games, probably at high/ultra settings. On AAA games, probably medium or so. You might also explore the RX590, 5700, etc.
I included a very well reviewed monitor that seems awesome for the price but just know you can spend $30-40 less for something equally as good. $160 for a 1080p 144hz, 1ms response time curved display seems pretty awesome though.
And if you wanted to spend a bit more, adding a cheap 250GB SSD will make a world of difference when booting up the PC, opening programs, transfering files and browsing the web. Also, another stick of RAM for dual-channel would probably spice things up a bit. However PCPP says that 1 stick is $70 new which is absurd to me. You can get a 2x8GB 2666mhz kit for $75.
Well you just said it yourself. The 500GB NVMe is a similar price to a 1TB SATA SSD, which is absolutely true. I would just figure out which is more important to you. Faster storage that is half the size or slower storage but twice as much space.
I will say this: 500GB won't last long if this is a gaming rig. Most AAA titles run anywhere from 60-100GB each. After you format the drive and install the OS, you'll have maybe 420-440GB of that 500GB 970 Evo.
Why buyers remorse?
This depends on your uses and also comes from a gaming mindset but,
I would have considered a Ryzen 5 3600X or a Ryzen 7 3700. Newest generation CPU and they compete with Intel CPUs far more than Zen or Zen+ when it comes to gaming. Plus, you could saved money with an X470 as X570 was released for Zen 2 CPUs.
Bumped up RAM speed to 3600mhz assuming a Zen 2 CPU was involved.
I would have spent another $30-40 on the case and got a Fractal Designs Meshify C which is far more premium but that may not matter to you.
I would have spent another $20 or so on a fully modular PSU.
Lastly, I would have considered the 5700X since its $100 more than your 2060 but outperforms the 2070 SUPER and even 2080 SUPER in some cases. I don't care about ray tracing or streaming though so again, you might have different uses.
Well, M.2 is just a form factor as is 2.5", 3.5", etc. NVMe is a mucher fast type of storage but is only available in M.2 or PCIe form factors. So keep in mind that there are normal SATA SSDs that are M.2 and then there are NVMe M.2 SSDs.
I removed the 970 NVMe drive because with your uses, more than likely, you'll never need an NVMe storage drive. NVMe is a beautiful thing for transfering HUGE files but that's not something that I see you doing.
You are still more than welcome to choose an NVMe drive but most likely, you'll never use it to its full potential. Your SSD choice will also have nothing do with your monitor setup. That will be on the GPU.
PSU is overkill. A 550W would be more than enough.
A 580 also seems overkill to me but I understand that you're probably buying a dedicated GPU for the HDMI/DisplayPort connections for multiple monitors? If you can get a 570 with enough ports, that will be more than enough power.
NVMe doesn't seem necessary. A regular SATA SSD should do just fine.
I wouldn't spend the extra money on the 2400G considering you'll still be using dedicated graphics. I would suggest the 2200G
Core count isn't important for streaming. For streaming, you want thread count. With the 3600 having 6 cores and 12 threads, you'll be okay. Though, if you can budget it, the 3700 8c/16t might be best for you.
Glad to hear!
The hardware inside is definitely overkill for the panel on the laptop. I believe the 51M has a desktop-grade GPU inside of it rather than a MaxQ so if that's the case, you should be able to achieve close-to 1440p144. You might not be able to achieve that at higher settings but definitely around medium with maybe a few things on high.
I have a 2070, 2700X and a 1440p144 monitor. Most games, I can achieve about 115+ FPS with a mixture of high and medium settings. Some games like Rust for example, I can only achieve about 100 FPS on the 'fast' preset (which is, rather low) and the render distance on max. Other games, I can get the full 144 all day long.
So, with that said, if you're happy with at least 100 FPS across the board on a mixture of medium/high settings, a 1440p 144hz monitor would be the way to go. At 1080p, you shouldn't have an issue achieving 144 FPS across the board at higher settings.
An ultrawide would be even more taxing so expect less FPS. Couldn't tell you how much less to expect though.
You might do that actually. If it isn't too difficult to do.
You can try but it might be best to do it physically.
Have you tried resetting CMOS? There should be a battery mounted on your board. I would cut power to the PC, pull the battery out, wait about 60 seconds, push the power button of the PC to clear all the capacitors and then reinsert the battery and try booting back up.
There may be a fast boot option within your BIOS that isn't enabled by default. You should be booting up within 10 seconds considering the 970 Evo. I use an ADATA SX8200 and I'm logged into Windows ready to go in 8 seconds.
Looks pretty good. What are your goals with this system? What kind of monitor will you be using? It's helpful to know if you plan to use just a 1080p 60hz panel or something like a 1440p 144hz panel.
You're missing a CPU cooler. The 9700K does not include one so that is something you will need to account for. I can suggest a couple of options but need to know if you're interested in overclocking at all?
NVMe doesn't benefit gaming/streaming - only file transfers. To save money, you'd be just fine with a normal SATA SSD if you wanted to. If you do decide to go with NVMe anyway, the 970 Evo Plus is a bit faster and is practically the same price last I checked.
You also don't have a case in your list.
Hmm. If it's under warranty, I would just go ahead and make a claim. At least reach out to Acer and see what they say. Otherwise, my only suggestion would be to wipe the PC and see if that corrects the issue. That certainly is not normal.
Went a bit over but this would be a pretty awesome gaming PC for the budget.
R5 2600. 6 core / 12 thread CPU very capable of gaming, editing, streaming, etc. Awesome value here.
I chose micro-atx form factor just to save a few bucks. This Gigabyte board is great for the price and is very well rated everywhere you look.
16GB of 3200mhz RAM. Plenty for gaming.
500GB M.2 SSD + 1TB HDD.
5700 XT. Similar performance to the 2070 SUPER and a lot cheaper. This will easily do 1080p144 gaming and even close to 1440p144 gaming. At 1080p, expect maxed out quality settings. At 1440p, expect a mixture of high/medium settings.
Q300L. Decent budget case. Not the best but for the price, it's great and again, very well rated.
550W semi modular PSU.
I just noticed that... I meant 12/03/18. Woops!
Sounds good. Absolutely. That will be sufficient for stock speeds.
It actually sold a couple of weeks ago. While I had it, I used it as a dedicated server for Rust.
Haha, sorry to confuse. That's month/day/year. Just the norm for me.
There are plenty of options! These are all ATX full tower and mid towers. Not sure if you're open to micro-atx but if so, just check that box in the filter and it will show you those as well.
Out of these, I highly suggest the following if you're wanting a premium yet affordable case.
1) Fractal Designs Meshify C
2) Phanteks Eclipse P400S
3) NZXT H500i
Ahh, gotcha. I can understand that. He will probably appreciate the building/learning process at an older age anyways. I know that I did.
Well, you're good to go on everything besides the CPU cooler for OCing the NZXT build. You would definitely want a higher end air cooler but preferably an AIO. The 9900K is a lot of CPU so it'll require a lot of cooling especially at or above 5GHz.
Are you sure that you don't want the experience of building your own? $1,400 will get you a pretty beefy PC with a R7 3600X + 2070 SUPER, 1TB SSD, 16GB of RAM, etc.
Out of those two options though, I would probably choose the NZXT build because of the more premium case, slightly higher end GPU, higher end motherboard, RGB RAM and the included mouse/keyboard which is obviously less expense to you. Better value if you ask me. There's also the possibility that it's still covered under NZXT's warranty? Not sure on that.
The MicroCenter build is appealing with the 32GB of RAM and 360mm AIO but you may never come close to using 32GB of RAM and you can easily toss a 240/280mm AIO into the NZXT build for not much money. Even then, the AIO is only worth it if you're interested in OCing.
You might consider 3600mhz RAM for the Zen 2 CPU. In certain cases, performance is actually fairly significant. I only suggest this if the price difference isn't too crazy. Depending on what you're doing with this PC. You might look at some benchmarks to see if it would benefit you.
With the type of NAND that the 660p uses, it will slow down the fuller it gets. If you're wanting decent speeds, I would plan to only use about 350-400GB of it especially after formatting and installing the OS. If you fill it up, it won't be much faster than a typical HDD. You can avoid this all together by going with something like a MX500, ADATA SU800, 860 Evo, etc. There are M.2 versions of these SSDs available.
The Seagate Barracuda outperforms the WD Blue.
They will certainly do the job but you're going to have a ton of wiring in the back. The H500 might not offer the space you need to manage the cables but you can give it a shot. You'll probably want to buy some zipties
A fully modular PSU is really what you would want considering the 24-pin motherboard cable will be permanently attached to a semi-modular PSU. You might be able to find some kind of sleeve but I'm not sure.
Unless you just really want liquid cooling, the stock cooler would do just fine. There isn't much overclocking headroom on Zen 2 CPUs anyway. I do understand the want for an AIO though so considering the rest of your list and the price point, it wouldn't be too crazy to go ahead and get one. I have one on my 2700X at stock speeds lol.
Why a 1070 for that price? You could get a reference 2070 SUPER for that price. The 2070 would smoke a 1070.
PSU is definitely overkill even if OCing. A 750W is more than enough. Even a 650W would be okay.
I'm not sure of your exact uses but have you considered all SSD storage? Maybe a 500GB NVMe + 2TB SATA SSD?
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