That's very true. Regardless what everyone says, I know I saw a major improvement when I first tried a 144hz monitor. I'm really just curious as to why someone would suggest a super high refresh rate monitor for video editing and graphic design. I may have to research that further.
Umm, I'm pretty neutral about them. I've used both, I enjoy both. They just have different uses and budgets. Right now, I'm using a Ryzen 7 2700X and love it.
If you want that high of a refresh rate, you'll be stuck with 1080p. 1440p has up to 165hz available (when overclocked) and 4K has 144hz available but those will be about $2,000 for just the monitor. Also, no GPU that exists will be able to push a true 4K 144 anyways.
Why 240hz if you don't mind my asking? It's going to be very difficult to tell the difference from a 144-165hz to a 240hz monitor. You'll also need a lot more power to push that many frames.
Is the budget also including monitor/keyboard/mouse/OS or just for the computer itself? If you wanted a really well rounded computer for video editing and gaming, $1,000 would get you a pretty sweet setup.
I would start here. I wouldn't advice the 7700K just because it's last generation hardware and since then, you can get the newer 8700K or go with Ryzen. Typically, Ryzen offers way better value and is cheaper but still, they are fantastic CPUs. You just give up the faster cores found on an Intel CPU.
I won't suggest a monitor until I know a bit more about what you're wanting to do and let me know if I need to include the OS, keyboard and mouse.
R5 2600. Six core and twelve thread CPU. Great for editing 1080p video but if you're editing 4K, I would suggest the R7.
Matched that with a B450 motherboard. If you're wanting to overclock a lot, consider an X470 instead.
16GB of 3000mhz 15CAS RAM. It's a 2x8 kit so if you need more in the future, you still have 2 available DIMM slots.
500GB NVME SSD for super fast transfer speeds. 2TB HDD for mass storage and games.
1070ti is really cheap right now and offers GREAT value. Capable of 1080p60 max settings or 1080p144 at lower settings. Can even handle a bit of 1440p60 probably around medium settings.
Premium case for durability and longevity. Also offers plenty of upgrade paths and has an open front panel for airflow.
650W fully modular PSU so you'll be good if you ever upgrade.
Here's a cheaper option than the build above. Still more than capable of running 1080p144 maxed out.
The price difference is fairly minimal between the 9700K and 8700K, so that's purely your choice but just know that 8 cores isn't exactly needed for gaming at all plus you do gain hyperthreading since Intel decided to reserve that for the 9900K. If you'll be editing or using intensive programs, that can definitely help.
Dropped down to 16GB of RAM. No game comes even close to utilizing 16GB especially 32.
Added an extra TB of storage.
Changed the GPU.
I believe the Meshify would be a better purchase than the H500 for the price. However, the Meshify is a bit smaller but I believe it has a better build quality and you gain the open front panel for better airflow. Which will be rather important considering an 8700k/9700k + 2080 will be inside.
I know, tell me about it. You can always look at different sources. I found mine listed on eBay as "open-box" and it was discounted down to $260 + like $24 for shipping. It was a steal I think.
Why the i5-8400 if you don't mind my asking? You can get way more bang for your buck by going with a Ryzen based system. Just so you know.
Anyways, I would probably start here. Just start comparing deals and see what you can do with it. I did go a bit over but there's a few things you can do to decrease price. I included a more premium case just because it wasn't much more than a cheaper entry-level case so I just went with it. Plus, that's also a great price for the Meshify C. If this is just for gaming, you could also get away with 8GB of RAM for now and wait until you need it to toss another kit in.
Okay, after seeing that, I would probably try and get a 1440p high refresh monitor just like that Dell. Matching a 2080 with a 1080p144 monitor would obviously take full advantage of it but I think you'd be wasting a little bit of that GPUs capability so 1440p would be the sweet spot. My 2070 plays most games around 80-110 FPS on high settings so again, I believe a 2080 would be a perfect match.
With your build,
The stock cooler that comes with the R7 2700X is probably close to being on par with that Pure Rock Slim so personally, I would either stick with the stock cooler or spend more for a good cooler or AIO. Something like the Scythe Mugen 5, Noctua NH-D15S, Corsair H100i PRO, etc.
You could get the G3 version of that PSU which would be a newer model, however, I have heard that in some cases, the G2 is better.
First off, a 1060 will have no issue running the majority of games around medium to high settings for at least 60FPS. That goes for Minecraft and AAA titles - it's a great beginners card.
For the list,
For streaming, you'll want something a bit better than the i5-8400. That's a 6 core / 6 thread CPU so I switched you over to the R5 1600 which is a 6 core / 12 thread CPU. Should be more capable for streaming games. It's also unlocked and comes with a better CPU cooler than the Intel CPU.
Got you faster RAM for cheaper. With a Ryzen build, you'll want at least 3000mhz RAM.
Swapped out the GPU only because I used to own the Dual 1060 and it was great. Your choice on that.
Does for family member need W10 Pro? Typically, very specific uses require Pro so I swapped that out for the regular Home version.
I chose a better, more premium case but again, that's all you.
I just bought that exact S2417DG for my latest build and it's FANTASTIC! I love it. There is a 27" variant if you wanted something a bit bigger but the build quality is solid, the stand is very adjustable, the colors are great and it's awesome for gaming. 144hz is standard but it's overclockable to 165hz.
Since you have some 1080p 240hz monitors and a 1440p 165hz - what components are in your build? You don't want to get a 1440p 165hz monitor if you only have a 1060 but you also don't want a 1080p144 monitor if you have a 2080ti.
I run a 2070 with the 24" model of that monitor. I average probably 80-110 FPS depending on the game I play. If you don't mind turning settings down and even turning G-Sync off sometimes, you'll be able to push it all the way out to 144. You'll probably want a 2080 if you're wanting to lock in 144 FPS on high/ultra settings.
Shouldn't affect performance but it may affect stability I suppose. You could always find other choices around that price point if you wanted to.
Lower latency probably wouldn't benefit you. As long as speed as 3000-3200 for a Ryzen CPU, you should be okay. Very specific use cases require low latency RAM.
It definitely is good enough I believe. My 2700X stays nice and cool using it.
Looks good. I run the 24" version of that monitor with an RTX 2070 and it does very well for gaming. I'm unable to push a true 144fps but it gets pretty close. Typically, on high or ultra settings 1440p w/ g-sync on, I average about 80-100FPS. The RTX 2080 should definitely give you that bit of extra power to get there.
I'd drop the AIO. The cooler that comes with the R7 2700X will definitely do the job unless you're planning to overclock a lot. If anything, get a Noctua NH-D15S, Mugen 5 or something along those lines.
You're definitely going to be paying the Asus tax with that mobo. Consider this one.
Swapped ram out. Half the price for the same specs.
Do you need an NVME drive? Consider a regular 2.5" or even an M.2 SATA.
I didn't change these but you could also drop down to a 650w PSU and of course, a cheaper case.
Went a bit over the budget but this would certainly be one hell of a setup. 2080 is definitely overkill for 1080p even when maxed out at 144hz. You may consider a 1440p 144hz monitor if possible.
SquareTrade is a pretty decent warranty company from the research that I've done but I still don't really know if it would be worth it. I'd be more focused on the warranty that the product comes with from the manufacturer and see if that would be good enough. Typically, they take care of manufacturer defects within a certain time frame but almost never covers accidental damage which makes sense. I think if I were to purchase a warranty on anything, it would be the monitor just because of the possibility of dead pixels, burn in, etc.
Are you purchasing a pre-built? I would say that it would depend on what it covers exactly. Sometimes those warranties don't do a whole lot. Can you provide a link to the terms and conditions?
Build looks great. I suppose you could just lay it down underneath the HDD but I wouldn't suggest that of course. You also shouldn't have to buy a bracket, that case should have multiple brackets for 2.5" drives. Sometimes in the front by the motherboard, sometimes in the rear. It'll include screws to do that.
That'll depend. If it's the full version of W10, it should be transferable although I'm unsure of that process. If it's an OEM version, it locks to the motherboard and you'll have to purchase it again if you swap the board.
Lot of sources are saying that the 212 evo includes the AM4 mounting bracket so you should be okay. PCPP is just letting you know that it might not fit without that adapter.
You'll be out of budget a bit especially when needing an OS. Windows 10 will be the most expensive component unfortunately. This is probably where I would start in terms of a cheap, entry level PC that would probably be more than enough for her needs.
What will this be used for? Gaming? Your list looks pretty good.
You should REALLY consider spending a bit more in order to fit an SSD into the budget. Without an SSD, it doesn't really matter what hardware you're running - it will feel rather sluggish and slow when booting, transfering files and opening programs. A ~250GB SSD runs pretty cheap.
Also, the Seagate Barracuda outperforms the WD Blue for the same price so I would also switch that.
If you'll be overclocking, you may consider something a bit better than the Pure Rock, however, if you'll just run it at base speeds or even with a mild overclock, that'll do the job.
The A400 is a pretty slow SSD. You won't see a huge difference unless you're going to be transferring large files but I can't imagine you will be considering it's 120GB. If you want to spend a bit more for something way faster, I'd consider the Crucial MX500 or Samsung 860. Get the Samsung if price is really similar.
No worries. Even if you don't have interest or know how to overclock, you should see about at least syncing the cores together that way when the CPU boosts, it does so on all 8 cores rather than 1 or 2. That can make a difference in heavier workloads so I would at least try that if possible. With my i5-8600K in my last build, a 5GHz overclock was a bit too much for my cooling solution so I did that and it seemed to be great.
Both are 8 core / 16 thread CPUs but the advantage of the newer 2700 is fairly minimal. You get a slightly higher base clock and boost clock, XFR capabilities which is great if you don't plan on overclocking and also keep in mind that the 1700X does not come with a CPU cooler while the 2700X comes with a pretty good Wraith Prism RGB cooler. If you're gaming in 1080p, you may see a few more FPS on the 2700 but if you're going to be gaming in 1440p+, the difference will become very minimal.
If you're in the US, the price different right now is about $160 which I don't believe is worth it.
For the cooler, don't get the H60. Pretty much every 120mm AIO has pretty bad performance for the cost and if you're concerned about noise, that's another reason to not get an AIO since the pump can be rather noisy - especially on a lower end AIO. The 212 EVO would suffice for a base clock i5 but I would actually go with the Cryorig M9i since it's a lot newer, bigger and better. That should keep it cooler which results in less noise since the fans/cooler won't have to work as hard plus the M9i could definitely support an overclock if you ever wanted to.
For cases, I would suggest the Fractal Design S, C or R6 depending.
I never actually applied the ADATA heatsink since my motherboard supplied a much beefier one. Picture 6 page 5 for reference. I can take a look at it later after work!
Adding an SSD will make a huge difference in boot times, transfer speeds, and opening times of your browser and applications. Overall, it just makes everything feel incredibly snappy compared to an HDD so that would be a huge benefit for you I believe. The only thing to consider is that you'll have to transfer your OS which is a pain. I generally suggest doing a full restore and start over with the OS, programs and games if your internet is fairly fast. Sometimes a clean slate is good anyways.
The R5 1600 would be an excellent choice if you do decide to start streaming. You're going to want a 12 thread CPU as the R3 definitely could not handle streaming. It would also benefit you in terms of power and longevity that way your next upgrade can be focused on the GPU if you wanted more power for games. With the specs on the R5 1600, that will definitely last you a few years if all you do is general web surfing, gaming and some streaming.
Having 16GB of RAM will also be nice for streaming and again, longevity. It would allow you to run more intensive programs and multitask alot if that's ever of interest. I would typically suggest faster ram for a Ryzen build though. 3000mhz is the sweet spot.
Oh yeah, absolutely. Both show support for older and 8th gen Intel CPUs - it just adds compatibility with 9th gen whether that's what you're going with now or maybe a future upgrade. That link I included is a direct comparison on Asus's website.
Way overkill for just streaming 1080p60. Secondly, you have an ATX case matched with an SFX PSU and a micro atx motherboard. I also took out your WIFI adapter and replaced it with a motherboard that has built in WIFI.
Those are pretty much the cheapest options that I put above, however, you may be able to find something pre-owned if you wanted. For Intel, I'd stick with B360 rather than X370/X390 and for Ryzen, I would stay with B450 rather than B350/X370/X470. Some motherboards are expensive because of the crazy VRM cooling for overclocking or features or ports or or or. Some even have built in water blocks for custom loops so they get pretty high end.
Personally, I would. If you go Ryzen and use that RAM, you'll probably be really limiting the power of the CPU because it's actually that important when it comes to Ryzen. For Intel, you may do some research to see if that'll work.
Typically, the Seagate Barracuda HDD runs the same price as the WD Blue and outperforms it. I may consider that instead.
Keep in mind that an OEM version of W10 will lock to your motherboard. That's okay if you don't plan to swap it out for quite a while but $40ish more will get you the full W10 which will allow you to transfer it if need be.
You would need to get another motherboard with both options. That's an LGA1151 socket so it wouldn't support Ryzen's AM4 CPU socket and that motherboard is too old to support the new coffeelake on Intel's side.
You can use your ram but if you go with Ryzen, you probably won't want any RAM that's less than 3000mhz in speed. Ryzen requires fast ram because of infinity fabric. The faster the ram, the faster the cores inside a Ryzen CPU are able to communicate with each other. Essentially. I could go more in depth but I don't want to confuse anything.
With Intel, your ram is probably okay as fast ram doesn't really improve an Intel CPU that much.
For Intel: you're going to have to get the i7-8700 or 8700k depending on if you want locked or unlocked.
For AMD: you will want at least the Ryzen 5 2600.
Both the i7-8700/8700K and Ryzen 5 2600 are six core and 12 thread CPUs so they would be sufficient for streaming gameplay. You could go the Ryzen 7 2700 route (I just got one - it kicks ***) but it may be overkill for just streaming 1080p gameplay. That's an 8 core and 16 thread CPU.
I'm unsure of your other specs but this is where you'll want to start.
Right now is actually a great time for the 10-series GPUs just because they are already marked down since the launch of RTX plus you'll probably find some even better deals during Black Friday or Cyber Monday. Additionally, you may even consider a 1070ti if the cost difference is great between that and a 1080. An overclocked 1070ti would definitely be on par with a 1080 for the most part.
I would suggest Ryzen if you're on a tight budget just because they are overall cheaper but also they have far better value in my opinion. They all come unlocked, Ryzen 5 and up have hyperthreading and they come with a pretty good cooler as long as you aren't going to be overclocking a lot.
However, Intel CPUs are faster and would add some FPS to any game over the Ryzen counterpart - especially at 1080p. The difference becomes less noticeable at higher resolutions. For streaming, you would absolutely need to have the i7 so again, it'll be far more expensive with Intel and then you still need to factor in an aftermarket cooler as well. And then pay extra for an unlocked CPU if you want to overclock.
All-in-all, in my opinion, get Intel if the budget allows but if not, Ryzen is great and will get the job done for sure.
Depends on what you're looking for. A 1070 is capable of running just about every game at maximum settings for 1080p60. I would probably get the 1080 if I were wanting to game in 1440p or high refresh rate 1080p.
You could also meet in the middle. Get a 1070ti and overclock it.
I would personally go for the Seagate Barracuda HDD. Outperforms the WD Blue for the same price.
Just keep in mind that an OEM version of Windows will lock to your motherboard. That's fine as long as you don't plan to swap it out for some time. Consider the full version and about $40 more if you'd like to have the ability of transferring it.
