I was actually in a similar boat. I transfered my PC to the Meshify C case from the PC-O11 for better airflow and had purchased an X62 to put in the front. After some research and thinking, I decided to mount the AIO on the top but the X62 did not fit. Returned it for an X52 and it fits great.
Anyways, I use the X52 on my OC'ed 2700X and it's awesome. You shouldn't have any issues with temperatures or performance. There will be minimal difference between the two radiators but after all, they are different sizes so that is to be expected.
If you can, X470 will save you quite a bit of money. There are few advantages to paying up for X570 and in the real world, you won't see much of a difference. You'll just need an X470 that is updated for Zen 2.
You should really consider adding an SSD to this system. It will feel awfully slow running everything on a single HDD. A $50 250GB SSD will make a world of difference for boot up times, data transfer, opening programs, etc.
Looks awesome! Could you link the vertical GPU bracket?
I pulled the manual for the B450M Pro. Looks like it has a total of 3 4-pin (PWM) fan headers and of course, 1 CPU fan header.
So if you have 5 fans, yes you will need either a splitter or fan hub of some kind.
You can see it here on page 4 and 5
This will take care of that issue. You should not lose RGB capabilities but keep in mind the additional cables you'll have for RGB.
Other than that, your build looks good. I would personally opt for a faster SSD such as the MX500, 860 Evo, 660P, or even ADATA SU800. The A400 is terribly slow.
A 2600X and 1080 should be able to do that.. I have a 2700X / 2070 and I get about 120 on mostly high settings with view distance maxed out.
Needs a few changes.
You chose a 7700 which is a couple of generations old and that is not a good price for it. You can get a much, much better CPU for that price if not less. The 3600 is a great CPU that will perform better for everything such as gaming and editing.
I doubt you need 32GB of RAM. 16GB is more than enough for gaming, browsing, light-to-medium editing work, etc. You probably won't come close to utilizing close to 32GB. However, you can always add another 16GB later on.
The motherboard you chose is rather old. The motherboard in this list is much newer and will perform better. It notes that it's not compatible without a BIOS update but the Prime X470 is updated for Ryzen Zen 2.
The SSD I included is not only more convenient (because it's M.2) but it's also three times as fast for transfering data and costs less.
I bumped the GPU up to the 1660 Ti. It's a great GPU that will very easily play all titles at 1080p60 on high settings. If you wanted something capable of 144hz or 1440p gaming, I would suggest the 5700XT but that is nearly twice the price.
750W PSU is a bit much. 650W is more than enough for the current hardware and will still be enough for plenty of upgrades.
I included a better case IMO.
PCPartPicker Part List
It's not in featured. Just one of the most recent builds.
$1500 is a bit overkill if you ask me. You could definitely spend that much but I don't feel that it's entirely necessary.
Ryzen 5 3600X. Great CPU with 6 cores.
32GB of RAM. Should be plenty to have many tabs ran across 4 displays.
GPU might be overkill but I chose this one because it has 2 HDMIs and 2 DisplayPorts. You'll need see what inputs your monitors have. You could need two Displayport to HDMI adapters. Not many GPUs have 4 HDMis.
Very nice premium case with plenty of airflow. You could downgrade this if you don't care for anything flashy.
You might have different storage needs but I chose to include a 1TB NVMe SSD.
Reliable 650W fully modular PSU.
Only 120GB of storage? Witcher is a rather large game. I believe that by itself will use up most of your SSD especially after you install the OS and programs. I would consider adding a 1TB HDD to this or swapping over to a 500GB SSD at least.
Typically I would say the 2700X is overkill but you can't even come close to beating that price for the same level of performance.
Must've read it wrong.
Any of these would be great options.
You did not include a part list.
I would consider a different PSU. That one is several years old and for a similar price, you can get a much newer unit as well as one that is fully modular and doesn't have mustard cables :p
The Kraken will most definitely come with thermal paste pre-applied. It's always good to keep some around in the event that you accidentally smear it or apply fresh paste later on.
I definitely agree with TheSingingCarrots, 32GB of RAM is way overkill. 16GB will do it.
When you switched over, I assume you installed/updated all of the proper drivers? Did you delete the ones from your Intel setup?
Are you wanting a laptop with a screen refresh rate over 60hz without dedicated graphics? That might be a bit difficult if so.
However, you do have options under 1000 USD.
It's purely up to you. The 500GB and 1TB would be a good as well. I chose to go pure SSD because the 660p is an amazing value.
If this just for gaming, the 2700X is rather overkill although I know the price is very good. Just compare it to the R5 2600 because that would do just fine for a gaming rig.
The stock cooler that comes with the 2700X is probably just as good if not better than the Pure Rock Slim.
3200mhz RAM will be just fine. Even 3000.
I would get something better than the A400. It's a terribly slow SSD but I know it's cheap. If you were thinking about using this as the boot drive, you'll definitely want something a bit faster.
Also, why a 250GB SSD, 500GB SSD and a 1TB HDD?
I think that's a perfect build for simple 1080p gaming.
That's a great build for the price. Very good overall performance. There really isn't anything that you could do in order to shave a few bucks off. Everything you chose is about the best in its class for the price. I was going to suggest changing the SSD around but a 1TB NVMe drive for 80 bucks is phenomenal.
It just means that PCPP doesn't have the physical dimensions of 1 or more of the components you selected. Meaning it's not able to tell you for sure if, for example, the ram wouldn't fit with a CPU cooler. Clearance of RAM with CPU coolers is actually one of the more important measurements to consider when planning a build.
This means that since you selected an M.2 SSD, it's going to share bandwidth with two of the SATA ports on the motherboard. Those will be disabled that way the M.2 drive can receive all the power it needs to run at full speeds. I wouldn't be too concerned about this unless you plan on using many, many storage drives.
I took a look at your manual. Page 28.
Looks like you have 4 fan headers. You'll just plug the fan(s) directly into those ports and they will have power. If you have more than 4 fans, you will need to get a fan hub which will plug into one of the headers as well as the PSU via SATA.
Are you sure about the AIO? It should most definitely come with the proper mount if you purchased it new. I had an H115i in my last Ryzen build and it included an AM4 mount. Just came preinstalled with an LGA mount.
The Ryzen 5 3600 would be a perfect choice for you. It's a fantastic 6 core / 12 thread CPU which will be more than capable of gaming and coding. Even a bit of editing work it can handle. Very solid CPU in all regards. Plus it's unlocked so you can overclock and lastly, it comes with a decent air cooler but you might upgrade if you're interested in overclocking.
This really comes down to what kind of performance you're looking for. For a budget friendly build, you might consider the 1660 Ti which will provide you with enough performance to play most titles at 1080p60 with no hiccups. Probably on high(ish) settings. You could upgrade to something like an AMD 5700 or 5700 XT which is very good for the price, however, you'll be leaving that 'budget' category since those will start at like $450.
PSU: You'll want something at least 550W and semi-modular. I would look at Corsair, EVGA, SeaSonic and Whisper for brands.
Case: The Fractal Meshify C is about the best case for the cost if you want something premium. Glass side panel, PSU shroud, etc. It's also very easy to build in. You have tons of options here.
CPU cooler: You could upgrade but you don't really need to unless you plan on overclocking or unless you just don't like the stock cooler. If this is your first build, I would use the stock cooler first to see if its good for you.
If there is no power to anything, there is definitely an issue with the PSU and/or the cables running to everything. I know that sometimes with a new PSU, the cables are rather stiff and hard to plug in so I would confirm that everything is plugged in properly.
Your main connections will be a 24-pin cable on the motherboard, typically 1 cable for the CPU (usually in the upper right or left of the motherboard) and then most likely, 1-3 cables for the GPU depending on what you have. After that, it's just cables for fans, storage devices unless M.2 and of course, case power but goes directly into the motherboard with no connection directly to the PSU.
For an AIO, you'll typically want that on top that way you have plenty of airflow coming in through the front and moving out of the back. An AIO on top makes the most sense but it's also fine in the front if it won't fit on top.
If you have any other questions, a part list of what you have would be very helpful.
In terms of assembly? The only thing I might consider is a fully modular PSU. Even then, a semi-modular certainly isn't bad in terms of assembly and cable management. Stay away from non modular.
There are differences between brands but it's mostly the same. Sure, the Red Devil will have a higher base and boost clock speed compared to the TUF X3 but then again, you can overclock the TUF X3 to match or go past the factory specs of the Red Devil. If you are concerned about it, I would just simply compare all of the 5700 XT's together and choose the one with the highest clock speeds with a similar price point. Or, you can pay more for it if you'd like.
Moral of the story: you can squeeze more out of the build but it'll be for more very marginal performance increases.
No worries, here's a motherboard with integrated WiFi.
That is stunning. I would never leave..
I think the 3600 and 5700 XT are perfect choices for what you want. Honestly, a PC like this will last you at least 5 years playing every AAA title at high frame rates for 1-3 hours on weekends. You could probably squeeze 10 years out of it if you wanted to.
List looks good!
As far as everything else, there's not much more you can downgrade without losing a good chunk of performance without going pre-owned.
You might try following the guide below. Might help with making Premiere a bit more optimized. Although I do blame a portion of your performance issues on the GT640, you do have a proper CPU and amount of RAM.
If this doesn't work, I hate to say it but you may plan on doing a full system restore or uninstalling ALL drivers and updates that you've installed. If it helps, I typically stay away from the automatic update programs such as Geforce Experience. I prefer to uninstall and manually install each new driver that comes out. At least for the GPU.
Absolutely. While 3600 is the 'sweet spot' for Zen 2, you'll be just fine running 3200. In fact, 3200 with 15/16 CAS latency will be just as good as 3600 with 18/19 CAS latency at the end of the day.
Definitely not the most cost effective - that's for sure. I don't really mind though. Sorry, realized that may have been a bit insensitive. Removed it.
Thanks for the input. I was primarily hesitant on X570 only because I feel that I truly don't need the extra features like WiFi 6 and PCIe gen 4. If I do spend the extra money for it, I just want to make sure that I can actually take advantage of those features.
Here's the way I look at it.
In the custom build,
Faster CPU which also has more cores
Better CPU cooling
Brand name parts
Considerably easier to replace parts or upgrade**
Pleasure of doing it yourself
In the HP,
** The HP will use a lot of custom and 'generic' parts such as a non-modular PSU, god only knows what kind of motherboard, ram, HDD and so on and so forth. That will make it rather difficult to upgrade later on. Who knows how much it can even be upgraded. The motherboard may only have 1x PCIe slot, it may only have two DIMM slots, it'll be limited in terms of fan headers, usb headers, etc etc. There are plenty of reasons to go with a custom build apart from performance.
Hmm, I mean you really shouldn't have any issues. You've got an SSD, 9th gen i5, 16GB of RAM and a 1660 Ti. I could understand if it was having an issue with editing, however, are we sure that it's not just your internet connection causing the buffering?
What are you wanting to upgrade exactly? Do you want more FPS? Does it struggle with certain tasks like video editing? Are you running out of RAM?
If FPS, what are you trying to achieve?
Sorry, are you just looking for a case and AIO that work well together? What length of AIO are you wanting? Big as possible?
Looks pretty good!
You'll cripple the performance of the PC if you run single channel as CPUs thrive off of dual channel memory which would be two sticks. Also, are you sure that 8GB is enough? I only use my PC for general web browsing and gaming and I can tell you that 8GB would not cut it for me. 16GB is considered your standard amount of RAM and even if you may not come close to using all 16GB of it, it'll surely be future-proofed when you're using this PC 3-5 years from now and programs/games have become more demanding.
Ryzen, specifically, thrives off of fast RAM and typically, I never suggest RAM slower than 3000mhz for a Ryzen based build. There are often some pretty drastic performance differences when you look at a Ryzen CPU running at 2400 vs something like 3200mhz.
Adding an SSD would make a HUGE difference in how the PC feels. From booting, opening programs, opening files, transfering files and even browsing the web will feel 1000% faster if the operating system were on an SSD rather than an HDD. It's much faster technology and honestly, adding a small SSD (<250GB) would be fairly inexpensive.
Honestly, other than that, I think you've done a good job of selecting parts and creating a very well-rounded PC build.
You could do that - absolutely. I only chose M.2 drives because they are very similar in price and may as well have the 'convenience' of M.2 rather than worrying about the additional cables.3
As for the storage itself, that's why I mentioned that OP may need more storage and to change it if needed. Everybody has different needs when it comes to storage.
If this were my budget, I would do something like this.
I also game in 1440p 144hz but with an RTX 2070. The 2070 comes very close to achieving the full 144FPS around medium settings so I have no doubt that a 2080 SUPER could handle it with ease even at high/max quality settings.
Ryzen 5 3600. Fantastic CPU with about the best price-to-performance ratio. With a light overclock, you'd have a great CPU that is capable of gaming or more if you wanted to.
16GB of 3600mhz RAM. No more than 16GB is really necessary and 3600mhz is the 'sweet spot' for Ryzen Zen 2 CPUs.
480GB NVMe boot drive + 1TB SSD for games. You may require more storage, you may not need this much. Either way, SSDs have become so cheap, I would avoid an HDD.
RTX 2080 SUPER. Very powerful GPU.
NZXT H510i case. Very good, premium case.
Quality and reliable 650W fully modular PSU.
Both are good options but I would personally lean towards the Ryzen build due to its flexibility in terms of what it is capable of. It certainly opens up more options if you ever end up streaming, editing, etc. Plus, it's mostly on-par with performance of the i5 so I wouldn't worry about that as much.
I don't believe an i7 would be worth it over an i5 since this is just a gaming PC. The i5 and Ryzen 5 are very strong performers.
Sounds like a driver issue. I would use DDU to uninstall your current display drivers and start a fresh install of the latest driver.
Here's what I put together.
I agree with your choice of a Ryzen 5. It's perfect in terms of price-to-performance so I would definitely go there.
I disagree with your thought of RAID 0 SSD. That's unnecessary and won't benefit you unless transferring very large files. NVMe RAID 0 even more so. You just need a larger SSD with more cache.
You shouldn't have any issues running AAA titles with an 8400 and Vega 56??
Great build! I just built a PC similar to this a few months ago.
I honestly see nothing that requires attention. I think you've done a good job with choosing parts. Seems like a very well-rounded build. You'll have no issue with achieving 1080p60 for all titles.
The Focus G Mini supports the following and includes the following fans. If it comes with two 120mm fans for the front, I would only see the need to add 1 fan on the rear in order to exhaust air. I would try to find the Fractal Design Silent Series LL 120 mm White LED that way it all matches up.
Front: 2 x 120mm (2 x Fractal Design Silent Series LL 120 mm White LED Included) / 140mm
Top: 2 x 120mm / 140mm with filter
Bottom: 1 x 120mm / 140mm with filter (requires removal/relocation of HDD cage)
Rear: 1 x 120mm
As for the monitor, are you just wanting something simple? 1080p60 or would you be interested in a 144hz monitor? Sure, a 2060 wouldn't take advantage of the 144hz monitor but I still believe it makes a difference. Plus, you can get one for a pretty reasonable price.
My only thought is that the B450 Pro4 memory controller(s) simply are not up for the task of 3000+ mhz on a dual channel configuration. Still not sure why ASRock would claim such a feat if they know it isn't capable of doing so. I mean, it's listed as one of the top features on the webpage for that board. "Supports DDR4 3200+ (OC)"
When you're attempting an overclock, are you manually entering voltages and timings or are you simply attempting to set XMP/DOCP?
No worries, it's easy to do! Spending just a couple bucks more for faster RAM is definitely worth it considering your CPU choice. B-Die is the best for overclocking/setting XMP (or DCOP) but honestly if you won't be doing that, tight timings and fast speed is simply all you need. I always suggest setting XMP at the least though. That way you get the advertised speed because RAM will never automatically go to its advertised speed unless that specific RAM (by model number) is listed on the motherboard QRL list.
For your uses, I really don't think the amount of cache would make a huge difference. Yes! You want some cache, but I wouldn't put a ton of thought and research into it. It's almost difficult to 'fill' an SSDs cache to the point where it begins to throttle (especially if said SSD has a lot of cache) and if you all you'll be doing is gaming, editing and of course, general computer use, I can't imagine that you'll run into a scenario where you fill it up and it slows down.
Now, you should probably know that the 660P is cheap for a reason. The 660P uses QLC NAND so its performance scales with the remaining amount of storage. Basically, the fuller it gets, the slower it gets but you won't actually see a performance difference until about 80% capacity and more. I use a similar SSD in my PC but since it's my boot drive and I have a secondary for my game library, I'm only utilizing like 30% of my 512GB so this doesn't affect me and I consistently get NVMe speeds when transfering files.
Hmm. Not sure what's going on then. I've actually had pretty decent customer support from Amazon unlike others. Might be worth just a few moments of your time to see if you can instant message or call about it.
Colorado here. Proceeding to order seems to work just fine for me. My guess is some stupid/weird state regulation. Maybe use another source such as eBay?