Thanks -- glad you liked it!
Thanks -- hope you enjoyed watching it!
The case hub has a speed control (Off/Low/High) switch up top near the power and front panel USB, etc. You can see it if you look carefully in the final build shots showing the top of the case near the end of the video (or in the completed build images).
It varies. Some get put to work around our office. Most get pulled apart for parts to use in future builds (or generally re-purposed in other projects). We usually keep them assembled for a month or so after they are built to answer questions that might come up.
If your part list is the same except for the M.2, you should be fine. We're only at ~340W max under load (before overclocking) with this build. That's still a good amount of headroom even if you do decide to do some overclocking. I'd have a hard time justifying going beyond 550-600W unless you perhaps plan to add multiple GPUs later.
Yep, we're working on getting them entered today. Prices should start showing up soon.
This particular case can be purchased with an optional riser / extension card (to connect the GPU to the PCI Express port) and mounting bracket for a vertical configuration.
That's an interesting idea. Don't imagine it would hurt if you could find something the right size.. it might be effective.
That said, this system has been sitting out since we built it back in January. The occasional puff of air from a compressed air can has kept it pretty presentable.
If I were to guess, I'd think more than likely it won't have been updated. It just depends on how quickly they've sold thru their inventory over the past couple months. If you have an older compatible CPU around, you'll be able to update the BIOS anyway, but if not you might want to try to call the retailer to ask if they can verify the BIOS version of what they have in stock.
Alternatively, you could perhaps go with the Kaby Lake version of the motherboard instead -- the ASRock H270M Pro4. It's about $10-$15 more, but you know it will work (plus the general bonus of the newer chipset).
If you're looking to save a few dollars, it can certainly be left off and you can just use the stock Intel cooler that comes included. But for the price, it's a good value. While we mostly wanted it to improve the look of the build through the window, it will also typically run a bit more quietly than the stock cooler.
Yep. The case, motherboard, CPU Cooler and PSU include the screws you'll need. You shouldn't need anything beyond what the components include.
Not a problem -- thanks for the feedback!
It's easier than that -- if you like the Phanteks P400S, I'd recommend just customizing the current guide and replace the case: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/G9JHbj
Most of the filters have stayed pretty similar over the past 3 months, so not much has changed beyond the motherboard and CPU. We cycle through difference cases with each update to show people new options -- but we fully understand that the case (more than most) is very subject to the taste of each builder.
Note that the Motherboard, Memory, Storage, GPU and PSU are all parametric selections and filters on the guide that show the cheapest option based on the filters we selected. You'll want to expand those to see the alternatives to narrow down your final choices.
The basics are the same, but there will be some details that change based on where you place things, etc. We actually did a livestream build in the P400S a while back -- so you could probably take cues from both videos as you plan and work on yours.
On the blocked drive bays warning, you should be fine. That message is a bit confusing (sorry about that) but it actually just blocks some of the front side mounting for additional (optional) drive bays. The included 4 drive mounts (2 x 3.5 and 2 x 2.5) are on the back side and below the shroud and will be unaffected by the GPU length.
Sorry about that! It looks like we noticed that as well when we updated the guide that this build was originally based on last week. It looks like we now list the Black version of the DUKASE V2. So that's certainly an option with no change in upgrade options, but it does change the look of things a bit.
You can also take a look through the history of the Great Gaming build guide to get ideas of similarly priced cases we've recommended in the past for this build budget (revision history links are on the left side of any Build Guide page).
This build doesn't include any wireless adapter, but you could edit the part list and add one yourself. The compatibility checker should keep you on track for that. If you run into any questions, feel free to ask either on the guide you decide to follow or perhaps in our forums! Lots of folks here that are happy to help you make that first build go smoothly.
The 1700 can be overclocked, though with the stock cooler you'll just not want to get too aggressive.
Sure. We liked the idea of a single SSD covering storage needs at that price point, but storage needs and preferences can certainly vary. As for the GPU, with limited availability on the GTX 1080 Ti's at the moment, we chose to stick with the GTX 1080 for this build. If you are interested, you can read a bit more on our thought process behind the part selection in the Guide.
Thanks -- glad you enjoyed it!
The work of our designer, Phil Coffman. He always manages to take great pictures for our builds!
Correct. We opted to not add an extra fan -- our previous experience with the case saw a lot of fresh air is moved across the system thanks to the front fans, though we did use a vertical CPU cooler in that system. I certainly wouldn't argue against adding one if you prefer, but so far the temps look good.
I have some notes around here with our summary of thoughts I'll try to find and post, but Ryan and Barry went through the case pretty thoroughly in our "First Impressions" live stream a while back. It certainly has some quirks (which are mostly addressed in the 570X), but overall it's still pretty nice to build in.
Ha -- I hear ya. Though the Ryzen branding on the left side of the motherboard helps a bit. :)
Congrats on your new rig -- and glad to hear we were helpful to you along the way!
If you want to stick to Skylake, I'd probably recommend you bump up to a B150 or H170 board. To see Skylake recommendations you would need to look at versions of our Guides from before January 2017 (check the history on the left side of the Guide pages).
I think the only place we've suggested some options for H110 boards any time recently was for our older (non-gaming) Home Office PC Guide. Prices and availability likely shifted a bit as the new boards released, but you can check for ideas on B150 boards in our older Entry Level and Great Gaming Guides. You can check out some ideas for H170 boards in our older Modest Gaming Guide. And of course, you can also check the current version of those guides for Kaby Lake board recommendations if you're not tied into Skylake for any particular reason.
The 3 front fans move a lot of fresh air into the case, so we haven't seen any issues without an exhaust fan in our testing on the system so far.
Availability has been pretty limited, but we hope to do one soon!
You are correct -- this system would work perfectly fine with a good 450 or 500W unit if that keeps things in the right budget for what you are planning. ( I think the max draw for this build was only in the 300W range.) Of course, double check the wattage calculator on your part list as well.
So then why did we choose 550W? There were lots of decent options in that range that kept us within our $850 budget requirements for this build. So dropping to 450-500W wouldn't have significantly changed the price but could reduce future upgrade options unnecessarily. (Imagine upgrading to a higher end video card or adding additional storage over time -- slowly increasing the power needs).
Hope that helps -- good luck with your build!
There's a lot of fresh air coming in with those 3 front fans, so we weren't particularly worried (and the temps seem pretty stable). Could definitely stick an additional fan at the back if you were concerned though.
Glad you like it, but as a staff build, it won't be featured. Thanks for taking a look and offering the kind words though!
ah, ok. On that motherboard (MSI X99A Gaming Pro Carbon) MSI recommends (in the manual) using the two top x16 slots. To accommodate that, we used nVidia's 2-Slot bridge. Since the cards are side-by-side, you'll want to try to stick with a reference cooler design so the air is exhausted out the back of the case instead of onto the second card.
One other thing to note: Different brands sometime measure the "slot" spacing differently, so if you spot a different brand HB bridge that you happen to like better, be sure to double check how they measure it.
Do you have a part list? It depends on the spacing of the x16 slots on your motherboard.
The archive is now available on YouTube if you prefer to watch it there. Hope you enjoy!
Agreed -- the C7 would also look nice and right there in that same "minor upgrade" price range, though it does change the air flow a bit. We used the C7 a few months back in a build, so since we had a bigger case to work with this time around, we wanted to give the H7 a try. Both were pleasant to work with and seemed to perform well.
They are two different sized radiators (240mm vs 280mm) with different tube layouts (top of the CPU block versus side), so it kind of depends on the rest of your part selection. I'd recommend posting the rest of your part list in our Part List Opinions Wanted forum to request some feedback specific to your current build plan.
The 950 PROs were drives we had on hand for other purposes so we added them to showcase the SSD mount to complete the look of the build. They definitely break the budget concept otherwise present in the part list, but we wanted to show off the case as fully as we could given the Aura/RGB tech present throughout the system.
We were looking to build with a newer drive that had a decent price/performance to align with the build -- and that reasonably matched our aesthetics. (Though ultimately, the drive ends up hidden with dual GPUs, so that became less a factor as the build evolved.)
If everything seems to be running normally, it could be fine. But 24 isn't a code the manual lists, so I'm not sure what that would be. Have you updated the BIOS to the latest version?
Very cool. Glad we could help inspire your build. Love how it came together. Great work and thanks for sharing it!
Looks like they changed their store link, sorry about that. Here's the current RMi/RMx options from cablemod:
The HB SLI bridge we used on the 570X build was the one available directly from nVidia. You might be able to get it from Amazon as well, but you'll need to make sure you get the correctly spaced option for your build though:
(scroll to the bottom to see the options and a link for selecting the correct size)
Extensions just connect (like an extension cord) to the end of the cables that are included with your PSU, allowing the original cables to be connected to the PSU itself and hidden at the back of the case while the extensions are all that's seen from the front, giving the look of custom cables. Since they only have to plug into the "standard" end of the plugs, they work with any PSU.
The Base and Full PSU cable kits are the unit-specific ones (such as the ones that only work with RMi/RMx PSUs) and those completely replace the plugs that come with your PSU which is why they can only work with specific models.
If you have a fully modular PSU (no permanently attached cables), then either option can work, but the replacement cable kits probably are the easiest since you won't have to hide the extra bulk of cable anywhere. If you have a semi or non-modular PSU, you'd want to use extensions instead since (at minimum) the 24 and 8 pin cables would not be able to be replaced.
As for your question about the 20+4 pin connector, if you look closely at the product images on CableMod's site, the extensions have the 20+4 configuration as well to accommodate either option.
We'll do some edits to shorten it a bit and have it up on YouTube early next week. You can watch the full archive on Twitch now though if you'd like.
More coming soon.. :)
But when you see the Aura/RGB LED glow around the SSD mounts it's tough to not add 2 SSDs to this case.. That said, you could probably put something less expensive in there. Those are drives we use for video editing so we had them on hand. :)
My fault -- sorry about that.. I'll do better. :) Things just finally came together to stream today, so we decided to go with it.
No problem. Are you talking about their PSU cable sets? If so, then sure -- CableMod sells kits for Corsair's RMi series PSUs. We used a set with the RM1000i in our Corsair Crystal 570X RGB build if you want to see an example.
It's not the FE that was the driving force, rather the blower/reference cooling design to help with the limited airflow options of the ITX case. And while the NF-A14 case fan we're using moves a lot of air, we wanted a reference card design to ensure the GPU wasn't adding its heat into the case when it could be pushing it out the back.
Sorry to hear it's giving you trouble. Are you using the riser card like we did in the video or are you plugging the GPU in directly to the motherboard?
If you are using the riser, you might (very carefully as the riser cable is easily damaged if over-bent) try removing it and swapping out the PCI-E bracket that allows you to connect the GPU directly to the motherboard and see if the issue goes away. If the problem persists (or you were already directly connected), I'd recommend posting to the Troubleshooting forum to get more ideas for what might be happening.
What part do you still need help with? Are you asking about configuring the fan/pump speed in the BIOS/Gigabyte software or where to connect the pump/fans on the motherboard?
For this build video, we decided to start with the Great Gaming Build Guide, which comes in around $1000 USD. Then we added the extra personal touches and upgrades we wanted until we hit our goal for this build (which was $1300). So it's not perfectly tunes to value/dollar, as we made some choices like your mentioned based on aesthetics.
If you're trying to squeeze a better price/performance out of this build, you'll likely make some changes (the same $1250 USD could be used with our Excellent Gaming Build Guide, for example). It comes down to the balance of where you are willing to spend your money.
And of course, you'll want to also keep in mind a budget for your operating system and accessories (mouse, keyboard, monitor) if you are building from scratch.