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After many years with my Ivy Bridge 3770K PC, I've decided to hand down the ol' PC to a friend and start a new build. I've built many PCs over the years, but I've never really given care to how the PC looks inside or outside as long as it served its purpose. This time around, I've decided to keep aesthetics in mind when I was choosing the parts for my build. Tried my best to find as many red parts to offset the black of the case and motherboard.
I mainly use my PC to program software applications and play video games. Depending on what type of software I'm coding, I need to boot into macOS (to use Xcode) or into Ubuntu (my choice OS for developing web apps). Due to this need, I had to make sure all of my parts were compatible with a macOS installation. I used the monthly buyer's guide found on tonymacx86.com to verify that my parts will work. The only problematic part was the GTX 1070 as a Pascal driver hasn't been released for macOS yet. I didn't want to buy a GTX 980 Ti instead so I picked the Z170X-Designare motherboard as it had two display outputs to use with the Skylake iGPU for when I need to use macOS.
Thankfully, I didn't really have any trouble with the build. All of the parts just worked and I didn't have to deal with any defective parts. The only thing that bothers me is that the Intel HD 530 iGPU is a bit glitchy in macOS. The top left of the screen flickers every few seconds. I've decided to just deal with it until Nvidia releases a Pascal driver for macOS.
I was able to attain a stable overclock at 4.5ghz at 1.24v. I feel that I can go a bit lower, but I've wasted so much time stability and stress testing that I don't want to go through the trouble. I might go at it again at a later time. I've decided on 4.5GHz so that I can use the computer reliably for at least the next 5 years or so. Passed stability testing using Prime95 28.9 and 26.6, IBT, OCCT, and x264 encoding overnight.
Great CPU, was able to overclock to a stable 4.5ghz easily. Multiplier on 45, vCore at 1.24v, LLC on high, everything else on auto.
Honestly, the Noctua NH-D15 in my other computer seems to get better temps than this H115i, but it looks a heck of a lot better. I was initially going to install the CoolIT based H110i that many people on the Corsair forums seem to prefer, but the one I received came with a lot of bent fins and it looked a bit dated compared to the Asetek based H115i.
I highly recommend this cooler if you want to go the CLC route. The only thing you miss out on going for the Asetek based H115i over the CoolIT based H110i is the couple extra LED lighting modes, hoses that are more bendable, and a fan controller that can report two fan speeds. But what you gain is a more rigid hose and a more modern looking radiator and CPU block.
The stock fans are actually quiet by default. They only get really loud when you switch the profile to performance mode or raise the RPMs yourself.
This thermal paste is a bit dated but a friend gave me the tube for free. Cant beat free! If I had a choice, I would have gone with some Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut or Noctua NT-H1. Really hate that Artic Silver 5 needs to cure before getting the best temps out of it.
I went with this particular motherboard because it was on Tonymacx86.com's buyers guide for hackintoshes. I went with this variant over the more popular ones as it seems to have mostly Intel components and have two display outputs for use with the Intel HD 530 iGPU. Since I cant utilize macOS with my GTX 1070, I purchased this motherboard to use the iGPU when in macOS.
Overclocks well, lights up everywhere, has an RGB lighting header, has Thunderbolt 3 support, and U.2 ports.
The only complaint I have are the blue accents on the motherboard and it's non standard, weird fan headers. The only true PWM header is the CPU fan header, and the SYS2 fan header works with PWM as long as you have separate dedicated power source. I used a SATA powered Swiftech PWM hub to connect to the SYS2 fan header to control all case fans.
Just wanted to max out the memory capacity so I went with this kit. Went with the G.Skill TridentZ over the Corsair Dominator Platinums as they came in red, and looked a lot nicer. Performs well at it's rated specs on the XMP profile.
The one part I brought over from my old PC. My trusty 4GB storage drive. I've had it for about 3 years now and it's still going strong.
I settled for the GTX 1070 when I saw that the GTX 1080 prices were so inflated. The MSI card looks great, is quiet, has no coil whine, and performs well. I can play Overwatch at a stable 165fps on high settings at 1440p. Will probably need to get a 1080 to play on Ultra and Epic at 165fps.
After browsing through the corsair website, it was either this case or the 400C. I wish I went with the 400C instead as I didn't expect the 750D to be so ginormous. It still looks good though and I have plenty of room for upgrades or a custom water cooling loop if I ever decide to go that route.
The side windowed panel doesn't close particularly well on my case, I have to screw the top case screw really hard so that the door stays shut.
Went with this overkill of a power supply. It's Titanium rated and charts from reviews showed that it had a 90% efficiency at even really low loads so I went with this one to futureproof myself for the next decade.
Since I only use about 230watts most of the time, the fan never powers on and the PSU stays cool. When I'm gaming, the efficiency hovers around 92-94%. On idle it hovers between 89-91%.
Compatible Wi-Fi card for macOS and is plug and play with Linux as well. Had to download drivers from TP-Link website for Windows though.
These fans are actually really loud at max speed. I have them set at a fixed speed of 1200RPM so that I don't hear them. The fans look really good with the LEDs on and adjusting the PWM doesn't affect the LED brightness at all.
I have 3 of these mounted as case fans, and 2 of them on the H115i.
This display is absolutely beautiful. I got lucky with the panel lottery and got a good one from Amazon on my first order. Gaming at 165hz with G-Sync on is amazing, I cant go back to playing on a 60hz monitor anymore.
The only complaint I have is that there is a glitch where a slice of the middle of the screen moves over to the right or left of the screen randomly. The only way to get rid of it is to turn the monitor off and on again. ASUS says its a firmware issue that can be remedied by sending the monitor back to them to get it reflashed, but I'm wary of sending it to them as I'm afraid I'll receive a defective refurb back. It's a damn shame because otherwise the monitor is absolutely perfect.
Saw a deal on eBay for this monitor so I purchased it. Absolutely beautiful LG IPS 4K display. The color reproduction is accurate and it has 1 DP and 2 HDMI 2.0 inputs. I thought 4K at 27" would be too much but it's actually nice.
The only complaint I have is that you cant really turn off the power saving mode when the monitor goes to sleep. The OS detects the monitor disconnecting and it shuffles my desktop layout around all the time.
Replaced a Logitech G710+ that I love using. Decided to get a keyboard with a chassis that looks less gamer-ish. The RGB lighting is pretty damn cool. Have it set to all white to get that office look, then turn on teh rainbowz for when you game!
Went with MX Brown as I loved using it on the G710+. I find that the MX blues are a bit more fatiguing over the browns when used for long hours.
I've used Logitech mice for the past 20 years and I've never been disappointed with them. Love how this particular model fits in my hand and the RGB lighting matches the K70 keyboard really well.
Bought these cheap LED strips off Amazon to plug into the RGB header on the Gigabyte motherboard. Works really well, powered on the entire length of the strip really bright. I ended up using only a third of the strip. FYI, the adhesive sucks and the white has a blue tinge to it. Wont get better whites unless you get an RGBW strip.
I've had this webcam for ages. I think I bough it for like $35 on eBay many years ago. Not sure why the price has gone up for these. Must be the whole streaming trend going on these days. Webcams went so.. unused.. for many years.
Fully compatible with macOS, Windows, and Linux!
Bought this as I ran out of USB 2.0 headers to connect the AX1500i PSU for Corsair Link. Recommended by a Corsair rep on their forums. I got the rev 1.1 model which have reviews on Amazon saying that it caused their motherboards to fry and cables to melt. Took the risk anyway.. seems to be working great for me. I'd much rather have the rev 2.0 model for peace of mind but it seems to be working fine.
The sleeving on these aren't that great in my opinion. If I had to rebuild my PC, I'd probably go with Cablemods stuff or cables from some other manufacturer.
These flex and bend a lot better than the SATA cables the Gigabyte motherboard provided me with.
To use PWM for all of my ML140 fans, I had to purchase this so that I can have them all controlled by one mobo fan header. I like that it's powered by a SATA connector instead of a bulky molex connector.
Have it connected to the SYS2 fan header on the mobo which is designed for water pumps.
Works with Airdrop and plug and play in macOS.
I wish I didn't need this but my audio interface is unfortunately a firewire one.
Mainly have this to protect all of my expensive components. Outputs a pure sine wave on a power outage and regulates voltages.