Description

This is an upgrade from my previous build: https://pcpartpicker.com/b/PVBbt6

New Loop configuration: Reservoir --> Flow Indicator --> Mesh Filter --> DDC Pump --> 360 Rad --> Drain Valve --> CPU --> 240Rad --> GPU

Build Notes:

  • Mounting the 240 Rad on top required cutting a tiny piece of the case to clear the DRAM.

  • The EK 150mm reservoir was replaced with the 100mm tube.

  • Bitspower brackets used to mount the reservoir.

  • EK DDC pump heat sink was replaced with Barrow brand heat sink.

  • LED from reservoir and CPU block was removed replaced with Corsair LED.

  • Cable sleeving is custom using 16 AWG GXL wire and Alphacool paracord and combs.

  • Cable management is a mess in the back. It's a small case and the Corsair cables are just insane. Suggestion...anyone?

Updated 3/17/2018 (new photos):

-DDC pump replaced with D5 pump

-14mm hardtube changed to 16mm

-Wheel flow meter replaced with digital flow meter

Updated 10/21/2018 (new photos):

-2080ti NVlink/SLI upgrade

-EK Cyrofuel Solid White coolant

New Loop configuration: Reservoir --> Mesh Filter --> Flow Indicator --> D5 Pump --> 360 Rad --> Drain Valve --> CPU --> 240Rad --> GPUs (Serial)

Comments

  • 23 months ago
  • 6 points

Cpu water block is Lit!

  • 23 months ago
  • 3 points

This is beautiful.... So clean looking.

It would be a great feature! +1

  • 23 months ago
  • 3 points

Wow, one of the best cable management I've ever seen +1

  • 20 months ago
  • 2 points

Is it just me, or does the PSU look a little crooked?

  • 10 months ago
  • 2 points

i rly hope u dont mind me stealing this idea, if i do actually build this i will tots give u credit for the idea!

  • 10 months ago
  • 2 points

Not a problem...can’t wait to see your build.

  • 10 months ago
  • 1 point

its gonna be till may till its built lol, although hopefully it goes well

  • 9 months ago
  • 1 point

Same, I am hopefully going to use some aspects of your build for mine, like the white led fans and the meshify c

  • 7 months ago
  • 2 points

Man this build is effing top notch!

  • 23 months ago
  • 1 point

I got scared when I saw TR4 because I thought it was a E-ATX board. Nice build with the small amount of space

  • 23 months ago
  • 1 point

Don't watch what Bitwit did to this case on a boat. He "made" EATX work in the Meshify C with consequences.

Thankfully the Define R6 finally supports EATX again.

  • 23 months ago
  • 2 points

I commented that because of Bitwits video

  • 23 months ago
  • 1 point

"Did I tell you guys you have to boot it?" -Fractal Josh 2017

  • 23 months ago
  • 2 points

"Stop enjoying Mother Nature" - Kyle 2017

"I get sea sick" - Austin Evans

me : k then

  • 23 months ago
  • 1 point

Asus makes EATX boards only. In fact, Asrock is coming out with a mATX TR4. If there was ever a ITX version, I'd totally dump this case and do a compact build.

  • 23 months ago
  • 2 points

ITX TR4 is but a pipe dream. ASRock already had enough issues gettting TR4 working in a mATX form factor.

  • 23 months ago
  • 1 point

So does the case support 3 120MM fans on the front panel?

  • 23 months ago
  • 1 point

The case is designed for 3x120mm or 2x140 in the front.

  • 23 months ago
  • 1 point

Very Nice! +1

  • 23 months ago
  • 1 point

Incredible build, very classy. Well done.

  • 23 months ago
  • 1 point

Very nice! One question though: It's not entirely clear from the second picture since it's at a slight angle, but are the front fans slightly off-center (to the left)?

I have the Define C, and the fans are off-center, but it doesn't matter since you can't see through the front anyway. And AFAICT, the Meshify C is the same frame as the Define C.

I also have the Corsair 460X. That one has glass in the front and the fans are centered (since you're supposed to see them anyway). But achieving that shifts the fans to the right (towards the back of the case) which puts a squeeze on the cable management at the back.

  • 23 months ago
  • 3 points

Yes. The front fans are slightly off-center and the case not designed to have lit fans in the front. I don't mind that knowing that this case is more about function and that this is a compromise. With the lit fans, it is balanced however by the power led light. I just wished that fractal made that front badge complete removable.

  • 23 months ago
  • 1 point

Thanks! I was someone in awe when I realized that you had LEDs coming through the mesh. I certainly wasn't expecting that.

  • 23 months ago
  • 1 point

Tip on the led fans (this is what I do) twist the two cables until they need to separate.

  • 23 months ago
  • 1 point

Thanks... That'll definitely help.

  • 23 months ago
  • 1 point

Who did the custom cables, and what are the benefits of using a corsair fan controller?

  • 23 months ago
  • 1 point

I found out by looking at comments on your previous build but cable mod don't have red cable combs do they?

  • 23 months ago
  • 1 point

I did the cables myself after watching all the lutro0 videos on YouTube. The benefit of Corsair commander unit is to control the fans and led all in one software and also to not have fan cables all over your mobo.

  • 23 months ago
  • 1 point

Well the cables look amazing, so would a corsair fan controller be good for a sub 1000$ build?

  • 23 months ago
  • 2 points

Not feasible for budget builds. The Corsair commander pro is like $70. Better spending it on better gpu/cpu.

  • 23 months ago
  • 1 point

oh ok, Thanks!

  • 23 months ago
  • 1 point

sexy

  • 23 months ago
  • 1 point

Man this is one clean a** build. You did a wonderful job.

  • 22 months ago
  • 1 point

Hi - awesome build! Going to try to learn from you! What is the third corsair module on the back? Top right?

What do you use the corsair lightning node for?

Thanks in advance!

  • 22 months ago
  • 2 points

That's the fan light controller that comes with the 3-pack ml120. The lighting node is for all the other LED strips. There's 4 LED strip: CPU waterblock, GPU waterblock, reservoir, and one strip under the pump.

  • 22 months ago
  • 1 point

Thanks so much for the reply, very helpful! Do you think you could give me a comment on my saved potential parts? https://pcpartpicker.com/user/pashashocky/saved/mZDNNG

  • 22 months ago
  • 3 points

Regarding your list: The AIO is 280 and will only fit in front(not top). You are listing 6x120 fans. How are you using it? You have only 4 slots left for the 120 fans after you fit the 280 AIO.

If you are not using Corsair Commander pro, make sure you have fan splitter/hub.

  • 22 months ago
  • 1 point

Hi, thanks again for your reply! I have spent a lot of time with the list yesterday.

  • I removed the extra fans, i will be using the commander.
  • Changed the AIO to an x52 which is a 240mm rad
  • The last problem I am trying to solve is with the GPU, your input would be very helpful as you have an awesome understanding of the case dimensions.

I would like to fit the rad on the front, which limits me to 315-30 (assuming i go with the gts 360) = 285mm for GPU length. The asus 1080Ti strix (298mm stock) seems to have incredible reviews about how quiet it is, and I really want to go that route because it will match the mobo too. However I will then have to mount the AIO on top which wont be as pretty and might touch the ram, but it will fit. Do you think the strix will fit if I make it watercooled with the ekwb block? Can I mod the meshify in any way to get 15mm somewhere extra for the gpu?

Thank you for your time and opinions sir!

https://pcpartpicker.com/user/pashashocky/saved/mZDNNG

  • 22 months ago
  • 2 points

@ 298mm You're outta luck with fitting the strix then. Rads won't fit in front w/ fans. You won't be able to mod the case either to make it fit. You can mount rads w/o fans and take a 10 degrees C hit. If you go with the Define C, the fans can go on the outside of the chassis at the expense of some intake performance. With Meshify C, you can't do that.

In my photo I have the 1080ti FE (270mm), air gap for PETG tubes (about 20mm), rad (30mm), fans (25mm)

Typically with water cooling the GPU, the FE makes more sense, and to OC it with utilities. AIB cards will only provide better power management in WC builds, but the difference in performance is minimal.

  • 22 months ago
  • 1 point

This is very nice! I love the Meshify C and am slowly building my dream pc inside it. I hope to get here at some point.

  • 22 months ago
  • 1 point

Big fan of your two Meshify builds. I'm trying to plan out my first custom loop with this very case and had a few questions on how you made everything fit. Here are a couple restraints that I am working with:

  1. I would highly prefer not to mod the case in any way. I have no tools to do so, but it seems your HoneyBadger3 was a modless build, which is where I'm drawing a lot of my inspiration.

  2. I do not want to remove the HDD bay. I have a 1TB HDD for storage and I'm waiting for a 1TB SSD to drop to $200, but until then, I need the bay in. I know this eliminates a lot of potential room to work with, but that's just what I'm trying to go for. Will this cause issues with running out of space? I am planning on the most basic CPU/GPU loop, no flow meters, probes, etc. Only blocks, radiators, res/pump, drain valve, all soft tubing.

  3. I would very much like to use a 240GTS on the top, 280GTS on the front. I have a Strix 1080ti, and the EKWB measurement is 281.20mm, so I think I can squeeze that in (315mm space including fan, minus 30 for rad = 285mm remaining). However, I am more worried about the top rad colliding with my mobo IO ports. (https://www.asrock.com/mb/AMD/X370%20Taichi/) The Taichi IO port is kinda fat and tall. Did you have issues clearing your IO port?

  4. For your HoneyBadger3 build, I liked how you mounted your res/pump combo on the back fan, and I want to emulate this. What size was the res/pump, and how did you get it to mount lower than your rear fan so that it would fit between the GPU and your top rad?

I have a feeling that the rads will fit (barely), and soft tubing will eliminate a lot of headaches and needs for angled fittings, but I'm mostly stumped on how to fit a res/pump combo anywhere beside the PSU shroud. I saw one build mount the res sideways under the GPU, but I am worried that this will lead to air bubbles being introduced into the loop with a sideways pump. I will do it though if it's the only way to do this. I really want it all to fit into this meshify!

  • 22 months ago
  • 2 points
  1. With AM4, no mod is required. With the TR4 boards, DRAM slots are higher up, so modding was required for that build.

  2. Using 240/280 rad in front, will work perfect w/ the HDD bays. Your drain will need to be in front.

  3. No problems with clearances. Just make sure your 8pin EPS is flexible.

  4. The pump is EK-XRES 100 DDC 3.2 PWM Elite w/ Barrow heatsink. Mounts are using: EK-UNI Holder DDC Spider, EK-UNI Holder 50/70 & Barrow DDC Pump Mounting Bracket (TCBJ-DDF)

You will need 90 degree angle fitting using soft tubing where pump connects to CPU.
Sideway res/pump mount is okay as long as it's filled to the top, but underneath the GPU you loose your PCIE. Both my AM4 and TR4 build were designed to keep PCIE area free and clear for expansion.

  • 22 months ago
  • 1 point

Awesome. Thank you so much for your reply! This gives me a lot more confidence toward buying my parts. Could you just quickly clarify what you mean by "drain will need to be in front"? As in it will need to be on the side where the tempered glass is? Or the front mesh? Just a little confused.

  • 22 months ago
  • 2 points

Drain in on the tempered glass side...

  • 22 months ago
  • 1 point

The CPU, the clocks, the temps, the cooling logic... Everything is perfect!

I would only prefer XFX/Sapphire Vega 64 with latest BIOS and undervolting or Galax/MSI 1080 Ti for GPU and Kingston Predator 960GB M.2 for storage.

Great config overall!

  • 20 months ago
  • 1 point

where did you get the custom cables from? and did you have to train them at all to get them so stright? Cheers

  • 20 months ago
  • 1 point

I made the cables myself. It took a weekend to do it. If you are interested, you can watch Lutroo tutorials on YouTube.

  • 20 months ago
  • 1 point

How did you mount your D5 and DDC pump? Working on my first loop and you pretty much recreated what I was imagining how my pump would be mounted. But, I have no idea how you did it.

  • 20 months ago
  • 1 point

The DDC pump sat on fittings and was also glued to the outside of the rad using hot glue gun. From the 360 rad there's fitting extenders and a 90 degree rotary fitting coming out and going up to hold the pump. Rubber feet were used underneath the fittings which sat on the case.

The D5 pump uses standoff screws/spacers to screw the EK pump mount directly to the bottom of the case.

  • 20 months ago
  • 1 point

love your build!

Which small part did you take off for mounting the top rad?

Was it easy?

  • 20 months ago
  • 1 point

A piece of the glass mount bracket was shaved off with a Dremel. It was only necessary because the HardwareLab radiator is wider than most(133mm vs 120mm like the EK SE rad).

  • 20 months ago
  • 1 point

Hi, every time I come here to see your build, I always see something new :) Is totally beautiful!

I'm working on mine right now and I have a question if you don't mind. Can you show how you mounted the D5 pump? Mine now is mounted in the bottom using bracket by ekwb like this: http://www.watercooled.ch/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/fractal-design-define-c-custom.jpg

I Also have GTS 360 in the front.

  • 20 months ago
  • 1 point
  • 20 months ago
  • 1 point

Thanks for reply!

Very clever what you did. You didn't have any vibration issues doing this? Do you run at what speed your pump? Here I'm running it at 20% 800rpm

  • 20 months ago
  • 1 point

I have the ek anti-vibration rubber leg at the bottom.

  • 20 months ago
  • 1 point

I'm going to buy that rubber thanks! Btw, when you mounted it, the standoff/spacer are on the ek bracket or directly at the bottom of the case without it?

  • 20 months ago
  • 1 point

It’s mounted directly at the bottom of the case. Only two screws where used because the hex grid doesn’t line up for all 4. It also held up by the fittings connected onto the radiator at the pump out outlet.

  • 20 months ago
  • 1 point

This is my dream build. I love it. I have a few questions for you:

  1. I will use the Black Ice Nemesis 240GTS with Corsair ML120 Pro LED fans for the top radiator. The RAM will be the G.Skill - Trident Z RGB 32GB and the motherboard is GIGABYTE X399 Designare EX. Do you think the RAM and the motherboard component will prevent me to mount the radiator and fans on the top?

  2. You mention that you cut a tiny piece from the case in order to mount the radiator. How do you cut it and which part do you cut?

  • 20 months ago
  • 1 point

If you want top rads and fans w/ g skill, the rads will need to be mounted off the screw rail to clear the memory. You'll be using the grill holes instead to mount the rad. You'll need to get a tap and die set to make new screw holes on the rad also unless you don't mind only only using half the screws.

The 240GTS are wider than most radiators. You'll need to get the dremel out and shave off a small piece steel off the glass mount(the triangular piece with the rubber standoff). You won't notice a visual difference because that piece is the top portion of that mount. Otherwise, you can get something like EK SE rad if you want to avoid this problem.

  • 20 months ago
  • 1 point

Thanks for your advice. I will consider the EK SE rad. As long as the g skill trident allows me to mount the 240 rad and fans, other things won't be a problem for me.

Why do I need to make some new holds on the rad? Any negative impact if I don't make it?

  • 20 months ago
  • 1 point

Without making new screw holes on the rad only 3-4 screws will line up with holes instead of getting all eight. It should be okay, just not as secure.

  • 20 months ago
  • 1 point

Absolutely Beautiful from the cable management to the custom loop. When I decide to Watercool my Rig this will be my blueprint to base my runs and equipment on.

  • 19 months ago
  • 1 point

Excellent build btw but I have one question. Are both the front and top rads configured for intake? Or do you have front rad as intake and the top rad as exhaust?

  • 19 months ago
  • 1 point

Front intake/Top and rear exhaust

  • 19 months ago
  • 1 point

Ah, thanks!

  • 19 months ago
  • 1 point

Have you had any sound problems with the ml120’s being to loud or having a weird static sound? I saw a review on YouTube complang about it.

  • 19 months ago
  • 1 point

I live in the city and for me with all six fans I can hear very low hums at 1000rpm. At 1500 gets noticeable, but not static. It doesn't get annoying for me until 2000 rpm.

  • 19 months ago
  • 1 point

Thanks

  • 19 months ago
  • 1 point

What did you use to mount the pump and the reservoir?

  • 19 months ago
  • 1 point

D5 pump is mounted to bottom of case with standoff screws. Reservoir uses two mounts: EK L shape mount in back and Bitspower radiator mount.

  • 19 months ago
  • 1 point

are you using tinted tempered glass or just normal tempered glass

  • 19 months ago
  • 1 point

This is the original Meshify C which comes tinted.

  • 18 months ago
  • 1 point

Hello, big fan of your build! It kind of inspired mine. I have a question about the flow meter, is the interior tubing made of plastic or metal? If metal, what metal? I’d appreciate your help on this, can’t find the info online. Thanks.

  • 18 months ago
  • 1 point

Plastic

product page

  • 14 months ago
  • 1 point

What are the fittings you used? I want to try to recreate this in my own build! (If that’s alright?) how would this look if the GPU was vertical?

  • 14 months ago
  • 1 point

Barrow 16mm fittings. You go vertical and you'll have to re-plan the loop from res to GPU to pump.

  • 13 months ago
  • 1 point

This is great.

  • 13 months ago
  • 1 point

Who makes that digital flow meter

  • 13 months ago
  • 1 point

Does your RAM run at the 3200mhz its advertised for on this Threadripper CPU?

  • 13 months ago
  • 2 points

Yes... the GTZRX series are designed for AMD. Just need to turn on XMP profile on in Bios.

  • 11 months ago
  • 1 point

Thank you. One more question: do you think the ekwb asrock x399 monoblock would fit with the slim rad and ml120 fans up top? Im concerned there wouldnt be room for the outlet...

this is the part: https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fb-asrock-x399-rgb-monoblock-nickel

  • 11 months ago
  • 2 points

Not possible. The outlet hole must be below the two top screws in order to work.

  • 13 months ago
  • 1 point

I love it

  • 13 months ago
  • 1 point

Hello! Your build brings aesthetic pleasure. And I'd like to do something similar to your - compact, cool-looking, and high-performance pc. My new motherboard (MSI mega x 299 creation for 2990wx) has an extended atx format. And does not fit into meshify c. I found out that there is a practical possibility to modify the motherboard tray. If I reduce the cable management channel per 0.5", MB should fall into place.

Considering that I plan to make the cooling system like yours, do you think the idea makes any sense? Or can it lead to overheating, cable management problems / other surprises? Or maybe I should look for another compact system unit?

Thanks in advance!

  • 13 months ago
  • 1 point

Possible...you’ll want to run ATX cable down the small gap between the vertical radiator and the backplate. Use thin flexible cables like the one that come with PSU...not what I use.

  • 13 months ago
  • 1 point

Great Bulid! Wilson.

I have one question, Did you remove black part of 2080ti waterblock?

  • 13 months ago
  • 1 point

I removed the RGB attachment on the water block. I needed the extra space to run the tubing...Added Corsair RGB strip behind each card instead.

  • 13 months ago
  • 1 point

Hey wondering if you have any comments on my build or ideas. I like the way you built your system and how you made your own cooling in a compact area. Do you have any tips on my system. I know it doesn’t have a cpu waiting for zen 2 to come out in March/ April I also want to know the quality of the ram you are using and do you think it has Samsung b die chips? Thanks I really like your build

  • 13 months ago
  • 1 point

I would wait on the board if you haven't brought it already. Even though it may take new zen 2, new boards may take advantage of new features of the 7nm that existing can't.

Memory is Samsung b-die. G skill with GTRZX suffix is for AMD chips.

  • 13 months ago
  • 1 point

Awesome blown my mind , good jop!

Small question , what is that mini screen! In the TG?! Did custom the edges ?

  • 13 months ago
  • 1 point

http://www.goverlay.com/content/lcdsysinfo/

I recommend 3.5" version. It has more options. The 2.8" looks better on this PSU shroud.

  • 12 months ago
  • 1 point

Is there any particular reason, aside from aesthetics, that you have chosen 16mm tubing/fittings?

  • 12 months ago
  • 1 point

Aesthetics...just aesthetics. Looks great when the tubing are beefy.

  • 12 months ago
  • 1 point

this is so beautiful

  • 12 months ago
  • 1 point

I’ve been following your build for a while, some superb upgrades with the RTX cards! What is the screen/software you use to monitor the temperatures? I had something similar and was using an old iPhone running duet display, but stopped due to issues with iOS.

  • 12 months ago
  • 1 point

http://www.goverlay.com/index.php

I would get the 3.5 if you can. It has more customization options. I picked the 2.8" because it fits better on the power shroud for this case.

  • 11 months ago
  • 1 point

Really nice how you managed to cram everything ina matx with a loop and still maintain am aesthetic look. I might go for this case aswell but the only thing i need to know if i can run a tube behind the top radiator/fans, along the motherboard. Or is the top rad already pretty much touching the ram ?

It would give me the option to go for a liquid cooled motherboard.

  • 11 months ago
  • 2 points

This is a ATX MB in ATX case. It's possible to fit all this in the mATX meshify, but you would put a res/pump combo in front of cpu block. Top rad is touching ram. You won't get any clearance for the tube.

  • 10 months ago
  • 1 point

Hey mate, awesome build you got there, is there a possibility, you could take a picture of how you mounted the D5?

Greetings

  • 10 months ago
  • 1 point

It's too tight to get a camera in there. The D5 is mounted directly to the bottom holes(not the rail) using standoffs.

https://www.amazon.com/Hilitchi-120pcs-Female-Standoff-Assortment/dp/B018C6NSRU/ref=sr_1_3?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1523260468&sr=1-3&keywords=m4+standoff

  • 10 months ago
  • 1 point

I just cried. This is the most beautifully cable managed rig I have ever seen. Not to mention the water cooling.

  • 3 days ago
  • 1 point

Exactly, nicest build that I've found.

  • 9 months ago
  • 1 point

GREAT BUILD!!! i recently build my own tr4 system. my cpu is the 2950x and my gpu is the asus 2080 ti strix. I also have 2x8 gb gskill trident z rgb ram at 3000 mhz cl15. The 2 ram stick are installed in the outer left and right ram slots in the mobo because the 2nd ram slot (close to the cpu) doesnt read the ram stick. This ram config is not recommended by the mobo manual but in bios says dual channel 3000 mhz with xmp.But i have some problems with my computers performance. When playing call of duty black ops 4 blackout for example in 25460x1440p everything maxed out, v sync off i get about 58-110 fps (80 average) and my gpu usage is also low at about 45-70 percent. This happens in other games too. In pubg i get 90-135 fps (110 average with drops to 70 when looking at a city from a high position) with everything on ultra and vsync off. My gpu usage gets to 90 percent but gpu clocks are at 1850 mhz most of the time. In forza horizon 4 in 2k everything maxed out i get 65-105 fps (80-85 average) and gpu usage is 60-70%Things get worse in call of duty black ops 3 when i get 85-120 fps in zombies or multiplayer while other 2080ti systems get 200 fps or more. In fortnite i get 100- 140 fps with framedrops to 65-75 in places with many buildings. Its like my cpu is a bottlenech for my gpu. I ran a Userbenchmark and these are the results: https://www.userbenchmark.com/UserRun/15211915 Could you please tell me if your cpu bottleneck your gpus aswell and also what kind of performance you get in those games with your beast of a pc??? Because it looks like mine isnt as beastly as i would like to :( Thanks in advance and sorry for the huge comment.

  • 9 months ago
  • 1 point

Sorry. I can't really help you here. I use this system for work/content creation/show piece and I'm not a gamer. The 2080ti(s) are for UE4/VR work I do for architectural visualization. I did buy battlefield V and played it in the beginning and got 60ish FPS w/ RTX on(no SLI).

  • 8 months ago
  • 1 point

How did you add that stat screen on the side of the case and does the tempered glass still fit?

Nice build btw

  • 8 months ago
  • 1 point

Double sided tape. In my case, I had to remove the back cover of the LCD.

  • 8 months ago
  • 1 point

Does the tempered glass still fit since the mini screen is there

  • 8 months ago
  • 1 point

I had to remove the back cover of LCD to make it fit.

  • 6 months ago
  • 1 point

Was replacing the CPU block LED's of any difficulty? How/where did you position the LED's? I'm a really a fan of the intensity!

  • 6 months ago
  • 2 points

I replace the EK RGB strip with the corsair aRGB. The strip was cut to shorter length to match the EK one.

  • 6 months ago
  • 2 points

Awesome, thanks for the info, cheers!

  • 3 days ago
  • 1 point

This is the most pleasing build that I've found on this site. Simply incredible. Amazing work, thanks for sharing!

  • 23 months ago
  • 0 points

dang! wish I had the money to fund a build like this even though I am not particularly fond for the case aesthetics.

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