THANK YOU FOR THE FEATURED SPOT PCPP
Hello PCPP Community,
Today I present my main rig build that I have been working on for the past 2 months.
Most of the parts used have been accumulated over time. (YES I know I could have opted to upgrade to a 1080 and 7700K, but my current parts already suit me well and I wanted to upgrade the aesthetics of my rig)
The motive for this particular build is that I am starting to get bored with simply off the shelf upgrades and wanted to do something unique, personal and customised. Thus the trigger to revamp and rebuild my new rig.
Full build log can be found on the In Win Forums or EVGA Forums
For this special build, I knew the case had to be something out of the ordinary and within my likings. Now as a big In Win fan/supporter, I decided to delve into their signature series of chassis and the one which caught my eye the most was the D-Frame 2.0. At first this case was only produced in Black/Gold variant which didn't suit my colour scheme. However a few months in, the Blue/White and Black/Green variants where announced. Now as I am situated in Australia, I had to special order the Green variant directly via In Win, and this case took almost 4 months to arrive. From my knowledge, this is probably the only retail unit in Australia and has almost unlimited potential to how you build inside it.
Plenty of thought and planning went into this build even before the case arrived. I will run through all the modifications I did in this build.
GPU Lightup Module
Having an EK 980Ti acetal waterblock installed on my graphics card, I was not satisfied with the stock design and really wanted the LED effect of a plexi block but the strength of acetal. Thus I decided to create my own light up module that utilises an LED strip and 4 acrylic plates connected with screws to mount to the stock waterblock. The top acrylic piece can also be removed if I ever want to change the designs or replace the LEDs.
Reservoir Charizard Skull
For the reservoir, I knew I wanted to incorporate my charizard theme further into my build. Thus I used a 3D printed charizard skull and attached it to the anti-turbulence plastic piece using zipties around the eye sockets. The overall look makes it feel like a laboratory test tube with the LEDs causing a shadowing/swirly effect on the skull.
Cable Covering Plates
Since the D-Frame is an open air chassis, cable management was a big issue I had to tackle as I didn't want to see any cable bundles. Thus I decided to create some acrylic plates that are mounted to custom made standoffs on the back of the motherboard tray to hide the majority of the cables. A charizard design was also incorporated into one of the plates using vinyl as stencil. It is also lit up using an LED strip. The designs was chosen to resemble tire threads and the motorbike nature of the D-Frame case.
Cable management window
For the main cables such as the 8 Pin EPS and PCIE cables, I wanted to manage those cables neat enough to the point where they could be showcased. So a cable management plate was made with holes that allowed me to align the cables in a very flat orderly manner, using zip ties to hold them down. A window is then made out of the acrylic panel to showcase this as well as an LED strip to illuminate it.
Since there is a 240mm radiator placed on the bottom of the case, I wanted to cover it up completely using a shroud similar to those found on the power supply. The inspiration to create the light up strip came from the new Coolermaster Mastercase Maker 5t which turned out extremely well. A lightup silver charizard skull is also present as well as more tire thread designs using superglue and small acrylic pieces painted silver. 2x5mm EK white LEDs are used behind the charizard skull to illuminate its eyes white. A temperature sensor is also present on the shroud to allow me to monitor internal liquid temps (Although the lighting on it has faded as it is 2 years old).
I wanted to create a watercooling loop that resulted in less clutter, hence I utilised passthrough fittings to allow me to create a loop that looked more simple. This involves having tubing pass through the back of the case (Full info on this on build logs). Also rather then using ordinary PETG or acrylic tubing, I decided to go with a combination of brass chrome tubing for the main showcase parts of the loop, and soft tubing for the hidden areas to make it all work. Brass tubing was cut using a plumbing tool and chamfered to prevent O-ring Damage. Loop consists of 1x240mm and 1x360mm Radiator.
I have managed to get my CPU to a comfortable 4.4GHz and GPU to 1390 MHz CPU Temps reach 55-60 Degrees under load, GPU reach 55-65 Degrees under load.
Any questions, comments, suggestions feel free to ask as I would like to hear feedback =)