We'll do some edits to shorten it a bit and have it up on YouTube early next week. You can watch the full archive on Twitch now though if you'd like.
More coming soon.. :)
But when you see the Aura/RGB LED glow around the SSD mounts it's tough to not add 2 SSDs to this case.. That said, you could probably put something less expensive in there. Those are drives we use for video editing so we had them on hand. :)
My fault -- sorry about that.. I'll do better. :) Things just finally came together to stream today, so we decided to go with it.
No problem. Are you talking about their PSU cable sets? If so, then sure -- CableMod sells kits for Corsair's RMi series PSUs. We used a set with the RM1000i in our Corsair Crystal 570X RGB build if you want to see an example.
It's not the FE that was the driving force, rather the blower/reference cooling design to help with the limited airflow options of the ITX case. And while the NF-A14 case fan we're using moves a lot of air, we wanted a reference card design to ensure the GPU wasn't adding its heat into the case when it could be pushing it out the back.
Sorry to hear it's giving you trouble. Are you using the riser card like we did in the video or are you plugging the GPU in directly to the motherboard?
If you are using the riser, you might (very carefully as the riser cable is easily damaged if over-bent) try removing it and swapping out the PCI-E bracket that allows you to connect the GPU directly to the motherboard and see if the issue goes away. If the problem persists (or you were already directly connected), I'd recommend posting to the Troubleshooting forum to get more ideas for what might be happening.
What part do you still need help with? Are you asking about configuring the fan/pump speed in the BIOS/Gigabyte software or where to connect the pump/fans on the motherboard?
For this build video, we decided to start with the Great Gaming Build Guide, which comes in around $1000 USD. Then we added the extra personal touches and upgrades we wanted until we hit our goal for this build (which was $1300). So it's not perfectly tunes to value/dollar, as we made some choices like your mentioned based on aesthetics.
If you're trying to squeeze a better price/performance out of this build, you'll likely make some changes (the same $1250 USD could be used with our Excellent Gaming Build Guide, for example). It comes down to the balance of where you are willing to spend your money.
And of course, you'll want to also keep in mind a budget for your operating system and accessories (mouse, keyboard, monitor) if you are building from scratch.
It would still work fine with the stock cooler. And yes, the Cryorig H7 was mostly added to complement the look of the build since it has a window on the case. It's also a fair bit quieter than the stock cooler if that's a concern for your build.
At the moment, 16GB is a pretty decent sweet spot for higher end gaming systems. So unless you'll be doing something memory intensive that calls for more, I'd recommend using those budget dollars elsewhere for now.
The GTX 1080 Ti is looking great so far. But it is also causing a notable price shift for the GTX 1080s. So it comes back to your intended usage (frame rate, resolution goals, etc) versus your budget. What monitor will you be using with the system?
Thanks -- glad you enjoyed it.
And yes, we have several new build videos in the works as well as a couple more live streams planned. Stay tuned!
Lots of possibilities. The case has a fair bit of room for expansion, so it mostly depends on how your needs change over time.
Sorry, I missed your reply. I'd recommend you head over to our Troubleshooting forum and post your question to get more help.
Glad to hear the video was helpful and congrats on your first solo build!
Sure -- the DUKASE V2 has two 5.25" bays, so you could easily add an optical drive to this build if that's something you'd want.
Always good to be missed. :) Fear not, I'm around!
Ah.. whew! Thought it might be something bad. Just another Sunday.
uh oh.. why -- did I break something?
It's mostly for something nicer to look at through the large case window. Considering the assorted RGB/lighting upgrades, the stock cooler didn't feel right. You can get a bit more insight into the part selection rationale by reading the completed build write-up if you'd like.
I'm not sure if I understand exactly what you're asking, but the build guide we based this on uses a parametric selection of Kaby Lake motherboards that shouldn't need a firmware update just to use the i5-7500. That said, most boards generally have a few UEFI/BIOS updates shortly after they release, so it is probably worth checking on after you get your system built.
It varies. Some are put to work around the office for assorted tasks as-is or with minor changes. On occasion, some parts are on loan and must be sent back to the manufacturer. But most are disassembled after a few weeks of testing and the parts (depending on what they are) usually get absorbed into other projects or future videos/content.
It connected to a resistive circuit that you can kind of make out attached to our anti-static mat (left side of the table when watching the videos), then that is wired to an electrical ground.
Thanks for the feedback. We've talked about doing something like this before. While it's not out of the realm of possibilities, it's not something we're currently working to put together.
It just went live tonight.
We're pretty happy with the case.. though maybe we'll snatch borrow a GTX 1080 out of one of our other builds before taking it to the BYOC... We'll see how the benchmarks come out. ;)
Yeah. Hopefully you'll enjoy it! I kind of regret not taking advantage of when it used to be held in Austin a few years back to at least check it out first hand.
True.. which makes it rather amazing that we've not all been caught taking a post-lunch nap when the cameras start rolling.
Well, you know.. 2PM is more of an early afternoon snack time than lunch. ;)
No one heading to GDC from PCPP. Always looks like a great event though.
I believe it actually was proposed when we were brainstorming this build, but I don't recall why we moved off of it. Could be we had trouble finding either the case or GPU in stock at the time we ordered the components.
Stay tuned -- with DreamHack Austin only a couple months away, we're planning a few SFF/"portable LAN" builds to get ready.
GT 730s! Where are they?
GT 730s! Where are they?
Safe and sound where they belong, last I checked.
It might be doable, but could be pretty tight depending on the clearance from the motherboard/RAM at the top. Another option if you need to allow more GPU length space and don't need all the drive bays, would be mount the radiator in the second chamber (removing some drive cages), mounting it to the top of front on that side. [ Example using a different, but similar sized CLC in the Node 804 -- look at picture #8. ]
Most slim/slot load drives should fit. The compatibility check should be able to help you pick a valid option if you've already added the case to your system.
The H110i v2 will have a cable that goes from the CPU block to the motherboard fan/pump header, and a splitter for the two radiator fans to connect to the CPU block. (Example from another recent build where we used the H110i v2).
Sorry to hear you're having issues with your build. I'd recommend posting your question in our Troubleshooting forum to get some help diagnosing the problem.
Yes -- all the RGB lighting zones can be turned off.
That's a Williams WRS-1 Magnetic Ratcheting screwdriver. It is much loved around the office.
We installed it using a USB key. You can buy Windows 10 on USB, or just buy a license and create the bootable USB key yourself if you have a spare 4 or 8GB key laying around.
We created a guide on YouTube a while back you can use to see how it's done. It covers installing a media center setup as well, but the first part covers installing Windows 10 via USB.
Not sure which one we used exactly, but it was likely a Silverstone of Noctua splitter we had on hand from a previous build.
For CPU temps, what were you seeing? Were you running the latest BIOS?
I doubt we ever actually tested the secondary drive on this build beyond seeing it in the BIOS (we typically only install the OS and any needed games/benchmarks onto the primary drive during our testing).
But as Dusk359 already mentioned, two ports will get disabled with the M.2 drive present. You might just try to other ports to see if that's what you've run into. Each port is also configurable to be enabled/disabled in the BIOS ("SATA and RST Configuration" under the Peripherals section), so you might make sure everything is enabled appropriately.
If you are just looking for the same brand/design, newegg does sell their "knight armor" style Team Dark memory with a red accent instead.
The case fan hub has a connector that plugs into one of the System/Chassis headers. It's acting as a splitter for the assorted case fans to just be controlled by a single fan header. For example, with our board, we used SYS_FAN3 @5:14.
Which board aren't you seeing?
Sorry -- missed your question here. Yes, we're using CPU_FAN to control the radiator fans and CPU_OPT to control the pump via the UEFI/BIOS and "Smart Fan" software Gigabyte offers. It also manages the case fans which we connected (via the Phanteks case hub) to SYS_FAN3. (All the fan headers on the board support PWM or Voltage mode, btw.)
No, you'd have to add your own adapter for WIFI with this motherboard.
Oh, interesting. Thanks for the update -- glad to hear everything is working now!
Congrats on your first build! Though sorry to hear it's having issues. That does seem pretty odd. We did most of the bench tests on this system via HDMI without issue. Did you build it with or without the riser?
You might look for advice in the troubleshooting forum, as it could really be any number of things and that would be a better place to get help. (PM me the thread if you do and I'll chime in if I can be of help).
are the Thermalake hub/controllers on the backside for managing the cooler?
are the Thermalake hub/controllers on the backside for managing the cooler?
Kind of -- the Thermaltake hub is splitting fan control from the motherboard header (@5:48 and @8:17 in the build video), giving the motherboard control over the radiator fans' speed. The buttons you see on the hub only control the RGB LED color / pattern.